Burning Down the House  5.10d PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Bryan Schmitz and Trevor Bowman 9/5/09 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Trevor Bowman on Sep 18, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bryan approaching the crux on the FA.

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The arete between Fractal and P1 of Synchronicity. Start up a slabby shallow dihedral (5.7) up to a small roof on the arete proper, climb left and up onto the steep headwall. Scale this on good squarecut slots and crimps with decent cams in the slots. At the top of the headwall the holds disappear for a bit, forcing you into a cruxy step right and then back left and into a small corner. Continue up the runout slabby upper arete (5.7 R) directly to the anchors on Fractal.
Good climbing and adequate pro. Led on-sight, ground up, cleaned on lead. With a bit more cleaning and some traffic this should clean up nicely!

Location 

The arete between Fractal (on the right) and P1 of Synchronicity (on the left) on the left side of the West Face. Climbs on the left side of the arete linking features.

Protection 

Set of cams through BD #2, set of stoppers, HB offset stoppers handy, offset cams handy.

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Moving through the crux middle section.