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Haus Rock
Routes Sorted
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Abstract Plain 
Burning Down the Haus 
Crystal Ball 
Dance the Magic Dance 
Dirty Love 
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now 
Five Nine 
Flakin' Out 
Hostile Krainzover 
Lichen This 
Little Haus 
Little Squirt 
Macho Picasso 
No Name 
Not Lichen This 
Not So Hostile Krainzover 
Ol' Ball and Chain, The 
Side Plate 
Sky Pilot 
Spine, The 
They Call Me Shorty 
Throwin' The Drool Again 
Top Soil 
Torqued Blow 
Unsorted Routes:

Burning Down the Haus 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: Kevin Capps on Jul 15, 2013
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Finally getting to better holds.

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Start about 10 feet to the left of Torqued Blow, and climb up and left to a high 1st bolt. A powerful 12+ sequence angles up and right to a seam where you can get a quick rest by the 3rd bolt before pulling some reachy and thin crux moves on the blank face past 2 more bolts until you reach the anchor.


This route starts about 10 feet left of Torqued Blow and just to the right of the small boulder and to the right of Sky Pilot.


5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, and a stick clip for 1st bolt.

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Finishing up the crux, poor quality photo.
Finishing up the crux, poor quality photo.
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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 15, 2013

I'm not sure if I got the name right, and I don't have any FA info. If this route is really 12d, from what i saw in the guidebook, I must have missed something or a hold could have broken because going straight up after bolt 3 starts a sequence that's way harder than the 12+ crux below. Seems a bit harder than Macho Picasso. Pretty cool route though! Great job to the FA party!

By Pinklebear
Jul 21, 2013

Maybe I was just having a bad day, but this seems substantially harder than Macho Picasso. If you take the rightmost start (not the Sky Pilot one), it's fierce and bouldery all the way to the second bolt, and I'm not sure how one even goes about snagging the crimp by the fourth bolt with the correct (right) hand -- it's a full body length above the break with nothing but blankness in between.

Anyway, maybe just having a bad day. These things have been known to happen!

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 21, 2013

I agree, after trying everything to get to that crimp, I ended up just going to the right hand side pull out right, getting the crimp with my left, matching, then clipping. That way you're set up for the next sequence.

By Ted Lanzano
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2013

I also thought upper half of Burning Down the Haus was stout. For a somewhat easier variation, climb the burly first half of the route to the third bolt and finish on the crack out right. This is called Halfway Haus and is around 5.13 b/c. Or, do the opening boulder problem of Burning Down the Haus and link into Sky Pilot at the second bolt. This link is slightly easier than Halfway Haus but still packs a punch all the way to the top jug. Good times at Haus Rock!