|East and Northeast Buttress Approach
|Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>|
One of three must-do routes in the Belle Fourche Buttress area... an excellent hang-out on hot afternoons. This climb follows the left facing dihedral of the buttress. I can't tell the difference between a 5.9 or 5.11a crux a lot of times at the Tower, but this one felt kind of burly.
More varied than your typical Tower pitch, this pitch covers a lot of different techniques in pulling a series of bulges. The climb really gets going at about the 40' foot mark, with tips around a slight leftward jog in the dihedral followed by thin fingers over a bulge. A similar section immediately follows on thin hands over another bulge. The crack then turns to lower angeled wide hands leading up to an easier-than-it-looks exit.
Double rope rap from the anchors at the top of the pitch.
Full rack. Cams up to #3.5 friend.
BETA PHOTO: This BEAUTIFUL route pulls through a series of roo...
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Sep 13, 2003
Excellent route for breaking into harder 5.10 on the tower. Hard sections are followed by good rests and the top half of the pitch is easier. Great climbing the whole way!
|By John Gunnels|
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This is a route that isn't done NEARLY enough. Tremendous pro and a wonderful "flavor" of moves...
|By S. Stember|
From: St. Paul, MN
Apr 8, 2009
Frank, why'd you give a PG13? Poor pro?
|By Tony Vavricka|
Nov 11, 2009
My favorite route on the tower, it's the only route with not one but two overhangs, great pro and a full 150 feet of pumpy fun.