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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Burning Daylight 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,439
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Sep 6, 2003

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Crux moves. PULL that roof!
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of three must-do routes in the Belle Fourche Buttress area... an excellent hang-out on hot afternoons. This climb follows the left facing dihedral of the buttress. I can't tell the difference between a 5.9 or 5.11a crux a lot of times at the Tower, but this one felt kind of burly.

More varied than your typical Tower pitch, this pitch covers a lot of different techniques in pulling a series of bulges. The climb really gets going at about the 40' foot mark, with tips around a slight leftward jog in the dihedral followed by thin fingers over a bulge. A similar section immediately follows on thin hands over another bulge. The crack then turns to lower angeled wide hands leading up to an easier-than-it-looks exit.

Double rope rap from the anchors at the top of the pitch.


Protection 

Full rack. Cams up to #3.5 friend.



Photos of Burning Daylight Slideshow Add Photo
This BEAUTIFUL route pulls through a series of roofs.  One crack right is "Gooseberry Jam"... and one crack left (in the shadow) is "Casper College".
BETA PHOTO: This BEAUTIFUL route pulls through a series of roo...
Comments on Burning Daylight Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Sep 13, 2003

Excellent route for breaking into harder 5.10 on the tower. Hard sections are followed by good rests and the top half of the pitch is easier. Great climbing the whole way!

By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a route that isn't done NEARLY enough. Tremendous pro and a wonderful "flavor" of moves...

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Apr 8, 2009

Frank, why'd you give a PG13? Poor pro?

By Tony Vavricka
Nov 11, 2009

My favorite route on the tower, it's the only route with not one but two overhangs, great pro and a full 150 feet of pumpy fun.