Burning Daylight  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Joe Collins on Sep 6, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: This BEAUTIFUL route pulls through a series of roo...

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

One of three must-do routes in the Belle Fourche Buttress area... an excellent hang-out on hot afternoons. This climb follows the left facing dihedral of the buttress. I can't tell the difference between a 5.9 or 5.11a crux a lot of times at the Tower, but this one felt kind of burly.

More varied than your typical Tower pitch, this pitch covers a lot of different techniques in pulling a series of bulges. The climb really gets going at about the 40' foot mark, with tips around a slight leftward jog in the dihedral followed by thin fingers over a bulge. A similar section immediately follows on thin hands over another bulge. The crack then turns to lower angeled wide hands leading up to an easier-than-it-looks exit.

Double rope rap from the anchors at the top of the pitch.

Protection 

Full rack. Cams up to #3.5 friend.

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Crux moves. PULL that roof!