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Burner Buttress
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Back Burner T 
Burner T 
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Goldfinch Crack T 
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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976
Page Views: 1,528
Submitted By: Michael Buchanan on Nov 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Mark Ward on the first ascent in '76. Bought a Tu...


Full on fatty!


Left of Firestarter


Big fat cams (#5 and #6 Camalot) No Bolted anchors. Hexes work well for anchor. Rap the tree.

Photos of Burner Slideshow Add Photo
Beta Photo.
BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo.
The top slab section of Burner. The vertical section is about that same size.
The top slab section of Burner. The vertical secti...

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By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

tried this back in my formative trad years on tr, and barely made it 15 feet!
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

just went back this past saturday 1/29/11 and gave this thing another go. It's pretty much hand/fist stacks for a long while with a knee in the crack. tr'd it because stepping to 10d ow in january (or any month for that matter) seems crazy to me.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Oct 23, 2011

Much harder than Firestarter for sure. The first 10 feet aren't bad as there is a bomber edge in the back to milk, but once the hand/fist stacks start its a fight. 2 each #5/#6 camalots a good idea. The crack turns into a liebackable flake near the top of the vertical section which I took full advantage of as my knee was bleedy profusely. Wide cracks are fun in a weird painful way.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jan 29, 2012

To approach this crack, walk around back (to the top of the Bong Eater buttress) and then work your way up and left (west) near a tree where this climb starts.
By celerystick
From: Riverton
Jul 15, 2012

You'll either love it or hate it...I loved it! Had to TR, I didn't have gear big enough.
By bsmoot
Dec 6, 2012

F.A. Mark Ward & Kim Miller, 1976