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By AJ Thomas
From Chattanooga, TN
Jan 13, 2014

A buddy of mine and I will be in Burlington later in the spring, it will be our first time there, wondering if we can get some tips on where to go. We are looking for bouldering and sport. Thanks!


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jan 13, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.

Head over to Petra Cliffs and/or Outdoor Gear Exchange and purchase "Tough Schist" by Travis Peckham, though even with the book, you still might find it difficult to find some of the crags.


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By AJ Thomas
From Chattanooga, TN
Jan 13, 2014

Thanks, what areas would you recommend?


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jan 13, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.

Smugglers' Notch, Carcass Crag, The 82 Crag (small rack necessary to fill in the blanks on the Big Wall section; however, the 5.12 Wall is 95% bolted), Upper West, and Double Upper West. Be aware that seasonal closures for Peregrines affect some of the aforementioned areas.


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By anna.gutwin
From Burlington, VT
Jan 13, 2014
April climbing

For bouldering, go to Smugglers Notch. The guidebook for that is New England Bouldering. It's about 45 min from Burlington. And don't forget to stop for beer and pizza at Piecasso in Stowe post-send.

For sport/trad check out Bolton. It has a couple different crags, my favorite is upper west. The guidebook (tough schist) is necessary, and a local is so helpful.

If you have a whole day or two for climbing, I highly recommend popping over to Rumney. As a mostly sport climber, I find the quality of routes there well worth the drive.

Have fun!


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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Jan 13, 2014
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.

Smuggs' will most likely still be socked in with snow and ice.


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By AJ Thomas
From Chattanooga, TN
Jan 13, 2014

We will be there the last week in March, not sure what the snow is like.


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By Derek Doucet
Jan 14, 2014

AJ Thomas wrote:
We will be there the last week in March, not sure what the snow is like.


That's definitely a transitional time of year. We could easily still be climbing good ice in Smuggler's Notch, but you never know. For early season rock, the 82 Crag is probably your best bet. The main wall has dead southern exposure and dries quickly. The Steep Wall catches a bit less sun and seeps a bit more, but is still a real possibility. Potential wetness aside, as a rule of thumb, if the sun is shinning, temps are in the high 30s or better, and there is no wind, the 82 can be excellent. As that laundry list of criteria suggests, it's pretty hit or miss at that time of year however.

The Carcass Crag will likely still be wet, as will most of Upper West.

If it were me I'd pack ice tools, skis, and rock gear so you can cover your bases.


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