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North Face
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Burley Dudes T,S 
Clear Lycra T,S 
El Nino T,S 
Hammerhead T,S 
Platte Magic T,S 
Traditionalists at Play TR 
Traditionalists at Work S 
Way Jingus TR 

Burley Dudes 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Circ Toepel and Bruce Hildenbrand, summer '88
Season: spring through fall (north facing)
Page Views: 321
Submitted By: slim on Jul 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Burly indeed. After climbing this, even if you soak your feet in the river while fishing all evening, it still hurts to walk the next day.

This is the 4th route from the left on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Begin the route from an uncomfortable, step-across start and immediately face the seemingly un-ending sea of non-holds. Awfully steep to be relying on friction climbing. The climbing lets up after the 4th bolt when the rock becomes less steep, but it still felt pretty hard.

Great climbing, great rock.


Location 

This is the 4th route from the right on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Scramble up the rock gully to the best staging area at the base of the route.


Protection 

Trout's and Hubbel's books indicate that this used to be a toprope, but is now bolted. If I remember correctly, 5 or 6 bolts, all pretty good modern bolts. At the top, just before the little tree on the ledge there is an odd bolt, probably used as a TR directional(?). there is a bolted anchor on the ledge at the top, with buttonheads/stardrives, bring new webbing. It is hard to decide whether to give this a PG-13 or R rating, so I will go conservative and give it the R rating. I TR rope soloed this one and probably wouldn't lead it.



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By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jul 27, 2010

Circ Toepel and I put up this route as a top rope in summer 1988.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 27, 2010

Thanks for the info and the routes you put up here. Pretty good slice of rock up there with not too bad of an approach.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 27, 2010

I'm not sure what's up with this route, as Slim, you rated it 11d, as did Hubbel, but when I did it two years ago and thought it was 5.10a and that Way Jingus next to it was harder. Weird grade discrepancy....

I agreed with all your other grades for the routes you recently contributed on the wall, although I thought Way Jingus was 5.11a instead of 11b, but that's minor.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 28, 2010

Jason,

I put the routes in using the Hubbel grades, but I definitely agree with you. I honestly thought Hammerhead was the hardest on the whole wall, but maybe because it was my first route of the day and I wasn't quite in the groove yet. It kind of caught me by surprise.

I actually did Burley Dudes as my last route of the day, and my feet were killing me. I was kind of struggling on it, but it seemed like it had more to work with than hammerhead and way jingus. That explains my hard-but-not-impossible comment.

Way jingus was pretty tough, but I did it probably at the optimal route in the roster (i.e. I was warmed up but not wasted yet).

Thanks for the input, when were you up there?

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jul 28, 2010

I can't vouch for the grade of this route once the bolts were put in, but when we did it as a top-rope, following a very direct line to the anchor, it definitely felt 5.11+. I did Raccoon Soup on Rincon the next day and the grade felt very similar. YMMV.

Bruce

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 29, 2010

Bruce - I'll have to go up there and maybe toprope around the route to see if the bolts were added on a slightly different path than what you climbed.

Slim - it would have been probably June or July, 2008.