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This is an excellent, varried route with some difficult finger crack jamming. It's often overlooked despite its proximity to classics, such as Rabid Muslim.
Start with ackward moves pulling into a flare with a finger crack in the back. Chimney/jam up the flare to its end and jam a thin finger crack through a small rough, with feet. Hand jam up small left-facing corner to a stance below the final fingers splitter. Bust up this finger crack with hard moves separated by a few marginal stances.
You can lead/rap this route with one 70 meter rope. It's really close though so watch the ends. The climb is probably 37 meters long, but with rope stretch, you're good.
About 100 yards left of Rabid Muslim and Lite Not Solid. Look for a finger-crack flare that's about 15 feet right of a large, broken right facing corner. The anchors are hard to see way up on the face at the end of the splitter finger crack.
Take a ton of cams in the 1-1.5 inch size (e.g. .5 camalots, orange metolious, #1 and #1.5 friends). Take a few small TCUs and a few hand sized pieces, up to a #4 friend (for the middle section).
By James Garrett
Sep 30, 2007
The unique thing about all of these route names are their tie in with the then "Foodfighter series" that was the latest kid rage. Dave Anderson who did the FA of most or all of these would buy another Foodfighter for his kids for the price of dragging them to the base of the cliff or have one for his arrival back home....so,
it is Burgerdier General or Private Pizza or Mean Weener, or Short Stack or BBQ Bomber, etc spelled that way for a reason. Sorry Josh, it is just not Brigadier General, though you have the correct spelling! Glad you liked the routes!
By Darren Knezek
Oct 27, 2007
Someone should change the name to the one James wrote about. Plus this route is 135' long. An 80 meter rope just barely reaches. The grade is harder than the original one in Eric's guidebook, since Dave had it extended 25' more feet after eric's guide came out.
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 19, 2007
Daren...just did this again last weekend, and you can definitely do it with a 70. And you're probably right about the grade. Probably deserves 5.11+. I wouldn't give it 12-, especially by Swell standards, but it's stiff for 5.11.