|Burge Mountain (Tonasket)
Sunny and dry (it's high desert= BRING PLENTY OF LIQUID) with plenty of shade in the bouldering area and in some places right up to the base of the wall...area is somewhat secluded (town's population is around 1,000) the area is US Forest Service land, as far as I know camping is permitted in the area (Just PLEASE be clean about it!). There are 60 or so routes spread out among 8 or 9 smaller areas (all within half a mile) ranging from 5.6 to 5.11+, mostly sport, trad, some mixed, with a few routes having 2 or 3 pitches, fun clean rock (can't remember what kind off top of my head) with a little bit of slab climbing...areas are as follows:
1)WESTERN FRONT - 14 routes 5.3 to 5.11- mostly single pitch sport
2)THE MAIN WALL - 7 routes 5.7 to 5.11 couple of 2 pitch, 1 or 2 trad
3)THAILAND TRAINING - 3 routes (short wall) 5.10-, 5.10+, 5.11
4)THE JUNGLE GYM - 14 routes 5.7 to 5.11+, single pitch sport w/1 trad
5)THE GREEN WALL - 8 routes 5.5 to 5.10+, most sport, 2 mixed, 1 trad
6)MIDDLE EARTH - 7 routes 5.7 to 5.11-, 3 mixed,2 sport, one 3-pitch
7)THE RAPTOR - 4 routes 5.9+ to 5.11, 3 sport, 1 trad
8)THE LEDGE - 3 routes 5.6, 5.7, 5.7 - Fun, clean slab climbing
ask in town of Tonasket or check back here for updated address/directions/gps coordinates
approach is 7-15 minute hike from parking area to climbing, depending on which area you're headed to
68 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',30],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Burge Mountain (Tonasket):
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BETA PHOTO: Burge Mountain Overview
From: Tonasket, WA
Jun 16, 2013
Burge Mtn is about 13 and a half miles up from the Tonasket (from Hwy 97) along the Havillah Rd (and is actually part of the lower West flank of Mt. Bonaparte). Turn right onto the gravel surfaced North Siwash Creek Rd after 12 miles on the Havillah Rd., and follow for 1.5 miles (don't turn left at the first road marked "Burge Mtn Rd"). Park along the West side of the road (when the cliffs are visible on the left) and cross the fence at the pass-through stile to approach the cliffs (Forest Service land).
The Lower Western Front is the first cliff visible from the road (about a 5 minute approach hike). The other crags are further along the trail to the East. Elevation at the parking area is 3300' and at base of the cliffs range between 3350' and 3650'. The rock is gneiss, and while great when cleaned, it can be brittle and/or loose in some areas, with lots of loose debris on surrounding ledges (so helmets are recommended). One remarkable thing about Burge is the lack of rattle snakes...
Generally the prevailing ethic at Burge is modern and less old school than at any other crag in the North Okanogan - some climbs are more traditional with gear expected to be used if there is a good placement, but there are also many more gym-like routes with lots of bolts placed even where gear would do, so either way, most routes are very safe despite the sometimes questionable rock.
All the sub-crags at Burge have at least a good route or two worth doing, but not all have easy access. For a comparison - especially if you're traveling with small children;
EASY (short approach with flat bases) - The Green Wall, Lower Western Front, The Jungle Gym.
MODERATE (boulder field approach, flat bases) - The Main Wall, Thai Training Wall, Middle Earth, Raptor Wall.
DIFFICULT (long approach and/or some scrambling required to sometimes uneven bases) - Upper Western Front, The Ledges, North Canyon and Upper SE, S & SW Faces.
Note to all climbers even though this is a somewhat remote crag, please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in-pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please minimize your impact and ideally make any bolts or top anchors camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible and don't mix your metals. Any comments and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.
From: Okanogan, WA
Sep 9, 2013
Gneiss area. Short approach on grass until you get to the wall. Faces nearly south. Very well bolted. Needs to be climbed more to clean it up. Well worth the trip if in the area. Look for a new pass-trough in the fence and follow the trail. Good FUN!