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Schultz's Ridge
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Are You Hard Enough? S 
Bikini Beach Party T,S 
Burden of Dreams T 
Crystalline Passage S 
Demon's Delight T 
Dreams of Thailand S 
Hooter Alert S 
Just Do Me S 
Moratorium, The T 
New Suede Shoes S 
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Superstem S 
Warm Up Crack T 

Burden of Dreams 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Davis and David Rubine
Page Views: 983
Submitted By: Keith Forest on May 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the first pitch. You start on the fi...

Photos of Burden of Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
1982 movie poster. Doc about the making of Fitzcarraldo.
1982 movie poster. Doc about the making of Fitzcar...
Burden of Dreams Topo
BETA PHOTO: Burden of Dreams Topo
Jonathan looking up at the second pitch.
Jonathan looking up at the second pitch.
Comments on Burden of Dreams Add Comment
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By Keith Forest
May 23, 2010

Often overlooked 5 pitch, mixed face and crack route (mostly continuous steep slab climbing on the face just right of the Moratorium). Beautiful Climb!

By Rob Dillon
May 23, 2010

Wow, I was just looking over at this beauty a couple days ago. Polished golden granite...bolts don't look horribly far apart....got anything more to add on this one?

By Keith Forest
May 25, 2010

Rob-If you like steep slab it does not get any better. I have been on it and found every pitch unique, hard on fantastic granite. I believe the topo is in the last Yosemite guide.

I did find a few sections to be a little stretched out- right at my comfort zone. But nowhere did it seem unsafe to me.

There is a pin protecting the 10c crux on the 1st pitch that had me a little worried but it did look sound. I wish a bolt had been placed there instead.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 23, 2011

Thanks for posting this Keith. I was looking at this and 'Golden Years' in my Reid guide and was thinking about giving them a go. I do have a question though. What generation are the bolts on this thing? I believe 'Burden' went up in 1990 which means it could have reasonable or sorta sketchy hardware (i.e. is it old school SMC stuff or...)
Any info you have would be welcome.
Cheers.

EDIT: Thanks for the reply Keith!!

By Keith Forest
Jul 9, 2011

Just got your question J. Albers. Both routes have Metolius Bolt hangers. They also have 3/8 inch, with what look like, expansion bolts - wedge anchor type because they have nuts. I felt very safe with the anchoring. Well thought out belay locations too.