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Elk Slabs
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"Black Man's Jump" T 
(Other) Dihedral, The T 
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Buns Up 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: Daniel S on Mar 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Left facing slightly overhanging corner directly up from second belay station of the "Water Streak". Steep Lay back moves get you to the lip. Heel hook over the right side of the lip and grab a bomber hold on the left side of lip. Flop yourself over the lip (crux) and continue up to the belay station (trad). Very committing climb with exposure that turns many away. But lots of fun when you've done it.

    Location 

    Rout Starts directly above the second belay station of the "Water Streak". Often considered the third pitch of water streak. After belly flopping over the lip, continue up the large crack (5.0 to high 4th class) until you reach a horizontal crack on the right intersecting the vertical crack. Use the horizontal crack to set up Belay (1 to 2.5 inch cams or hexes) or set up sketchy belay just to the right of the belly flop over the lip. From the belay, traverse right along the horizontal crack until it runs out, then fourth class it to the gully. Follow the gully down about 130 feet and look for belay station for the Tree Rout on the wall on the left (when facing down hill) side. Use two ropes to rappel down. Or, from the Buns Up Trad belay station, traverse left (fourth class) to a boulder field-gully and scramble down.

    Protection 

    Two large (4 to 6 inch) Cams and a large sling for semi detached boulder just on top. 5 to 7 inch cams if you want to protect the run out to the belay crack up higher. 1 to 2.5 inch cams for belay.


    Comments on Buns Up Add Comment
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    By Brent Butcher
    Oct 20, 2011
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

    The 5.9 move(over hanging lay back) is protected well with a BD Cam #3 down low and a #4 up a little higher.

    • **READ THIS IF YOU WANT TO TOP OUT OF ELK SLABS OUT***

    Equipment: 70M rope, .75-2'' Cam and nuts. Anchor: Long Webbing (wrap boulders near top)

    After you pull the slightly over hanging lay back it is easy 5.4-5.5 slab to the top with a couple area's for protection. However, if you fall (for some odd reason well past the crux) you will definitely definitely hurt yourself this is why I gave it a RX rating (so don't fall past the crux, or until you have put some pro in a little bit farther up the route ~35-40ft). Stay out of the gulley to the right and climb the slab only!

    If you have parked in the sunset parking area you can top out Elk Slabs and find the trail that descends to the parking lot. The trail will be a little challenging to find but keep heading north east and you will stumble across it. Hope this helps.
    By Drew Nevius
    From: Oklahoma
    Dec 19, 2012
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    We used a 3.5 and 4.5 camalot (basically a #4 and a #5). Even after pulling the lip, I had trouble finding anywhere to place the #3 I took with me until 25ft past the top of the laybacking section. I wouldn't suggest leading this unless you have a #5 and maybe even a #6. Also note, it's hard to protect the seconding climber on the laybacking if your rope falls into the crack after they clean the gear.

    I would suggest taking a #4(x2), #5(x2), maybe a #6, and some #1 and #2 cams for the belay at the horizontal crack 40ft up the slab.