|By Ted Smith|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
May 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
On toprope, I found this route to be much trickier and immensely more difficult than the popular 5.9 route to the left. I also have red pointed the other 9 across the wall--which is also a bit tricky to lead, but much easier than this so-called 5.8. The moves through the first wall crack were about as hard as the crux on KGB. The upper section about 15 ft below the anchors was at least 10c if you don't stem the chimney on the right. Even the bulge below those two closely-spaced bolts was harder than anything on Neptune, which is 10a.
What gives? Does someone think this is funny? I think that intentionally misleading other climbers is childish and irresponsible at best, and reckless endangerment in the interest of ego inflation at worst!
|By James Willis|
From: Gilbert, Arizona/Chicago, Illi
Aug 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
I'd like to echo Ted's sentiment regarding the difficulty of the route. The run out between the first and second bolts definitely places this climb in the PG13 range and the grade of 5.8 is extremely sandbagged considering all of the moves on bulging faces.
|By Joe Cayer|
From: Mesa, Az
Oct 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I believe the Marty guide lists this one as gear and bolts. You can protect the bottom bulge with gear. Not one of my favorite climbs, but not too bad with protection...