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Tony Angelis enjoys a very long cruise on TR (poss...
Super long, low-angled perfect hands in a corner.
from the approach trail's topout, head left, past the "Belly Full of Bad Berries" arch for a few hundred feet.
8-10 gold camalots, a few reds, maybe a blue.
BETA PHOTO: Ian waaay up on the Bunny Slope.
Tigger on Bunny Slope (IC 5.9+).
Tigger approaching the upper cruxy section on Bunn...
Tigger, working through the lower cruxy section on...
Nearing the top of the route. Great, sustained jam...
Starting up Bunny slope
Jungle Jane from Alabama gettin' the hang of it!
|By John Bradford|
From: Lilongwe, Malawi
Oct 22, 2007
.75 camalots protect the opening moves.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 16, 2008
Great route and quite sustained. My right foot was feeling it after all the non-stop foot jamming.
|By Jason Shatek|
Dec 3, 2008
take a lot of #2 camalots and a few 3s. A couple small cams works for the lower portion,
From: slc, ut
Apr 29, 2009
really fun mellow 5.9. all hands all the way
Sep 11, 2009
Unbelieveable! A narrow hand crack on a vertical section leads to a looong sloped dihedral with a perfect hand crack. Ooohh that belay. Sustained. Solid for the grade
|By David Kozak|
Nov 10, 2009
This is a really fun climb. Take one or two blues for good measure. My 8 year old daughter Sasha had a blast on it.
|By Kitty Pimms|
Nov 29, 2011
Wonderful confidence booster for someone new to cracks.(Also one of the more mellow approaches. Be sure to take the SECOND trail past the CC campsite, past the first big wash, through the desert just a bit. Good cairns the whole way!) Butter hand crack love for the rest of us! Love, love the tight hands on the first section. Get there early for good pics, as the dihedral gets early afternoon shadows. Yum yum, give me some!:)
From: Oakland CA
Dec 20, 2011
Mixed feelings about this one. It is a decent route and one of the few .9s at Indian Creek so it draws a crowd, but I found it terribly painful on the feet. Easier on the shoulders sure but that off vert ramp was more discomfort than fun for me.
Also, I recall it being more blue camalots than the one suggested here. Tougher for the small handed crowd.
|By Cimbing Ivy|
From: Sierra northside
May 1, 2012
Sustained perfect hand crack that goes on forever (almost like the little sister of Incredible Handcrack, but without the roof!) Super sweet. And Sustained. Takes a few small cams at the bottom, and mucho #2 gold camelots (8 to 10+ pieces depending on your comfort level). Plus one #3 right before the chains.
It's more like 5.9- in terms of technical difficulty but the incredible sustained nature of the climb makes it a solid 9 for sure. A sweet delight.
May 8, 2013
I underestimated this one and paid the price! The fact that the crack is in a ramping dihedral makes it difficult to jam straight on, so you are constantly torquing the right foot jam while stemming/scumming the left foot on the face. You can give the right foot an occasional rest by jamming the left, but then you're in more of a lieback position.. either way, the sustained nature of the crack made these moves strenuous and painful for me. Granted, this was only my 5th climb at the creek and I'm sure my technique needs some work... But I wanted to warn other creek n00bs not to underestimate this one. I found Supercrack to be much easier.