Bunny Ears: The Best Climbing Knot You've Never Heard Of
by Andrew Bisharat
Bunny Ears Knot in 7 Steps
Whether you’re doing a three-pitch free climb or a 3000-foot big wall, multi-pitch climbing is all about efficiency. Every little time-saving action, every slightly more streamlined step, adds up to saving you precious hours—it’s the difference between climbing the last hundred feet of 5.9 offwidth by headlamp and topping out to a perfect sunset and sipping a beer by dark.
Climbing quickly isn’t just a matter of moving faster on each pitch—it’s all about increasing efficiency at the anchors.
Enter the Double Figure Eight, known fondly as the “Bunny Ears.” This knot has a range of useful applications, but where it really shines is its ability to get you tied off and equalized to a two-piece anchor more efficiently than any other option out there.
Whether that anchor is two bolts or two cams, you can use this knot to get yourself quickly clipped in and safely off belay. The knot also has the benefits of being dynamic (less force on the anchor) and creating a “master point” spot to clip a locking carabiner for belaying up your second in an auto-blocking belay device situation.
The “ears” of the Bunny Ears can be adjusted so that the anchor is perfectly equalized.
But best of all, no matter how much load you put on the Bunny Ears, it will untie easily. This attribute makes the Bunny Ears great for clipping a jugging line to an anchor or even for clipping the haul line to the haul bag. Here’s how you tie it:
Tie a figure eight on a bite, making the loop part of the knot very long, two feet at least.
| || Bunny Ears Step 1 |
Take this loop and feed it directly back through the knot (the same part of the knot where the loop is coming out of). Note how two “bunny ears” start forming during this step.
| || Bunny Ears Step 2 |
| || Bunny Ears Step 2B |
Continue pulling the loop through, enough to bring it back up and over itself, right over the bunny ears.
| || Bunny Ears Step 3 |
Dress the loop by bringing it down to the base of the knot. Pull the bunny ears tight and out.
| || Bunny Ears Step 4 |
Clip each bunny ear to an anchor point! Voila! Assuming your two anchor points are solid, you’re now off belay.
| || Bunny Ears Step 5 |
Adjust the bunny ears so that the knot is perfectly equalized. This involves feeding rope into the knot, or out of it—experiment by seeing which side of the ears you have to pull in or push through. STEP 7
Know how to create a master point. If you’re going to belay the second up, you can clip a locking carabiner through both bunny ears and belay your second using an auto-blocking style of device. If you’re swinging leads, your second can simply clip himself into this point through both bunny ears.
There you have it: a solid, safe knot that is easy to untie and even has a master point for clipping a locking carabiner. Grab a rope; learn the knot, and use your new-found powers for good.
|Comments on Bunny Ears: The Best Climbing Knot You've Never Heard Of
|By Mickey Guziak|
From: Grand Junction
May 31, 2014
What a great knot. Saves so much time and messing with cordalette.
|By Dan Africk|
From: Brooklyn, New York
Jun 20, 2014
A trad anchor should always have more than two pieces, and once you build the anchor with a cordelette, sling, etc, it's much faster and better to clip into your master point with a clove hitch, which you can adjust in seconds as you move around the belay ledge. Even with two bolts, using a sling would be faster than messing with adjusting the length of this knot, and easier to equalize.
And when your second comes up, you can simply unclip from the master point. If these bunny ears are your main anchor and you're not swapping leads, you would have to build a whole new anchor when your second comes up.
If you use this method, I would recommend at least modifying it by leaving about 5 feet or so of slack between your harness and the 'bunny ears' knot. This way you can clove hitch into the anchor, so at least you'll be able to move around and adjust your length to the anchor for optimum safety and convenience
This is a good knot in general, anytime you would use a figure-8 on a bight as a master point, since it's easier to untie and has more redundancy. But I think it's a bad idea to tie it directly off your harness as a multi-pitch anchor.
|By Byron Igoe|
Jun 25, 2014
If I understand it correctly, the fact that you can shift rope from one ear to the other to adjust and "equalize" them also means that this does not offer No Extension (if one of the anchors blows, the other ear takes all the slack) and is not Redundant (if one of the ears is cut, the other ear will pull through).
What I might do in this situation to get similar benefits is: clove hitch to one anchor, clove hitch to another anchor, find the direction of pull in the slack between the clove hitches, and tie a master point. The clove hitches allow for easy fine-tuning of the equalization, and this is SERENE.
For the master point knot, an eight-on-a-bight is often sufficient, but a BFK (or eight-on-a-bight-of-a-bight) provides two loops that are Redundant with No Extension.
The clove hitch solution is also easily extrapolated for a third anchor, in which case a Figure 8 On A Bight with both intermediate lengths will also yield 2 loops in the master point.
Am I wrong?
|By Dan Africk|
From: Brooklyn, New York
Jun 26, 2014
Byron the method described in the article is not self-equalizing (like a sliding X), so it does have no extension. I believe it's also redundant, but I'd have to study the knot more to be sure. But I think it's very impractical for the reasons I previously mentioned.
The method you're describing sounds very similar to an 'equalette', which is basically a cordelette divided into two arms with load-limiter knots, and then each arm is tied to one or more anchors using clove hitches. The equalette would be simpler to setup, with the advantage of being self-equalized. Otherwise, a cordelette is easier than any of these methods