Bungal  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Mackie Makinano Submitted By:  Rajiv Ayyangar on Oct 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This varied line starts just to the right of Djols. Pull a couple moves to a gaping break, then navigate a spatial sequence between a small tufa and a large one. After a no-hands rest perching on top of the large tufa, bust straight up (the right-leaning line is Original Siomai, 5.12b), and tackle the sea of pockets, holding off the pump until the all-too-welcome chains.

Bungal, or "toothless" is so-named because in the process of establishing this route ground-up, the first ascensionist took a large block to the face, losing several teeth. Because of the oft-chossy nature, and to ensure well-placed bolts and clean lines, rap-bolting is now the norm and accepted ethic at the crag. One of the best at the grade, demanding power-endurance as well as a variety of techniques.

Location 

The leftmost route in Area 4, starts to the right of Djols, between a large tufa and a small tufa just right of it.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2 thread-through slings, ring anchors at the top.