This is an obscure, granite crag on Boulder County Open Space land which doesn't quite fit into Boulder Canyon or Upper Dream Canyon. It also is known as Sugarloaf Dome. It lies off the Sugarloaf Rd, a home to a small, intriguing community. It is probably not worth the time or energy or potential aggravation to find this crag. Once, it hosted about 15 moderate routes in the 8 to 12b range. It has been the site for odd bolt bashing...possibly by governmental employees, so be careful of relying upon any fixed gear for protection.
It is described in Rossiter's excellent 1999 Boulder Canyon guidebook on p. 24-5 & Rolofson's classic 1995 Boulder Climber's Guide p. 87-8.
These routes include: A. Vector, 10. B. The Simpsons, 11, chopped. C. Center aka Permanent Protection, 10+, chopped. D. Malamute With An Attitude, 9+, chopped. E. Old Route, 8. F. Love to Regret It, 9+. G. OJ Flake, 9. H. Sultry, 10. I. Roof Route, 11-. J. Broken Camera Blues, 11- R. K. C'est Chouette aka Crack to Face, 10. L. Suspended Man, 12, chopped. M. Thanks Bill Left, 11- R. N. Thanks Bill Right, 8 or 10-, chopped.
Drive up CO 119 aka Canyon to Sugarloaf Rd about 3.8 miles past Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock. Go north about 0.9 miles, turn right on Betasso Preserve Rd, go another 1/2 mile or so. Park. The trail goes to the top of the crag. Climb around either side of the crag to its base.
I only climbed the first pitch of this route, and it sucked big time. Super easy slab leads to a vertical section with no pro, save for a bolt which someone made unuseable by flattening it into the rock. The second pitch continues up much better rock through some hard climbing (5.12 moves) to the top. The route can be found about 25 or 30 feet to the left (West) of "Thanks Bill". Look for the anchors at the top of the first pitch above a vertical section of rock at the top of the initial slab....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Went there, based on '95 sport book listings, in June 2006. It seems to us that most of the bolts have been chopped by the city. We could not find the older listed routes, except for on the east side of the crag. Thanks Bill (var. 10a, and left side 11a) were worth doing, but there are no anchors at the top. All in all, not worth the walk, unless you like views to the south (Boulder Canyon/Magnolia Road) and no people.