Bummer 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Oct 28, 2006 |
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Elli takes a rest on Bummer.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start as for Lazy Bum, passing a cruxy 10b move to reach a white knob. Once standing on the white horizontal dike, climb the fingertip crack that protects well with RPs/micronuts. Make a commiting move (10c crux) to gain a thin hands, somewhat flaring crack. The climbing eases to 9+/10a from here to the ledge. The 2-bolt anchor is shared with both Jamcrack and Lazy Bum. Either rap from here to the ground or continue up unremarkable second pitch (5.9), passing a single bolt (replaced 4/99 by the ASCA) 20' up to gain a grassy crack. A single rope rap back to the ledge, and another single rope rap to the ground.
Protection Micronuts/RPs are essential for protecting the thin crux. Additionally, a single set of cams with doubles in the smaller sizes.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Nov 8, 2006
| This route, and "Lazy Bum" can be toproped after doing the first pitch of the "Jamcrack Route". In fact, this is how most people do them. |
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Aug 17, 2007
| As Darshan suggests, this a relatively safe lead with a handful of RPs/micronuts. |
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 17, 2009 rating: 5.10c
| Crux protects with micro gear. Not as classic as Lazy Bum IMO. |
By Osprey From: ... May 31, 2010
| A black alien protects the crux perfectly. If you have a set of aliens and a set of offset stoppers you'll be golden. |
By Michaeld916 From: Sacramento, CA Nov 5, 2012
| My first taste of 5.10's in the valley, sent on TR. Palms sweating just thinking about leading it. Bring the small stuff. BETA SPOIL, maybe: If on lead, or TR, nice no hands rest in the wide part of the crack 2/3 the way up. |
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