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 ADVANCED
The Red Slab
Routes Sorted
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1976 Crack/chimney T 
Back Scratcher T 
Bumblies For Breakfast S 
Corner, The T 
Diamondback S 
Fun 'n Games T 
Lounge Lizard S 
MK '74 T,TR 
Pink Slip S 
Rattle and Scream S 
Slip and Slide S 
Slip It In T 
Snakes For Snacks S 
Spring Fever T,S 
Trundelero S 
Vapor Trail S 
Wicked Game S 
Unsorted Routes:

Bumblies For Breakfast 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Annette Bunge, Ken Trout
Page Views: 1,292
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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My partner top-roping this in the mid '90s.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great, continuous, 80' pitch that is not for the meek. It originally had five bolts (you do the math for the runouts), but an additional bolt at the bottom was added in the summer of 2001 to reduce the groundfall potential. This route was established in the old-school style: on-sight, from the ground, with the protection drilled from free stances. As such, it is too run-out for your typical sportclimb, but it's got big bolts that were drilled with a Hilti.

Even though it's steep, it's a highly featured less-than-vertical slab, so falling is discouraged. With that in mind, it's got lots of holds and occasional rests. If you're comfortable on 5.10 sport routes, you'll probably enjoy this, but if you're just breaking into the grade get someone else to string it up and run it on a toprope.

Protection 

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.


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Eva climbing Bumblies For Breakfast.
Eva climbing Bumblies For Breakfast.

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By Bryson Slothower
Mar 27, 2002

I'm pretty comfortable on 5.10 and enjoyed leading this route but found it to be a bit dicey. The moves are fun and the holds are good but a slip from one of several 5.10 moves could leave you seriously bumming. It is possible to TR this route after leading the 5.9 just to the right that shares the same anchor
By victor villarreal
Apr 23, 2002

Ditto. Nice route, but the runouts are there. Don't lead it if you are not comfortable having your feet 7-10' above the last bolt.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jul 14, 2003

A small nut would take the sting out of the slopey section between the last bolt and the anchors.
By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 8, 2009

Personally I've always loved RS for its rather infrequent bolt placements. Runouts above bolts, coupled with the slow, steady, considerate style of climbing peculiar to this cliff just make me concentrate in a way I find irresistible. This route just happens to be the most Red Slab-esque in this sense. Highly recommended.
By Dan Petty
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

First bolt placement was a waste IMHO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you would deck anyway.
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jun 27, 2013

I led this one a long time ago (with 5 bolts). It was spicy. Still pretty proud I did it, because 10a was real climbing for me then as a youngster, I need to get back and try this thing again.

Note: there are 10a moves way past bolts on this route, at least by sport climbing standards. Phenomenal route, with some good rests, but be ready to pull 10a moves 8-10 feet beyond your last bolt.