Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Claim Jumper Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Luck Next Time S 
Blue Sky Mine S 
Bobbing for Ear Snax  T 
Brewed Awakening T 
Bum Steer S 
Bye Chimney T 
Chaps My Hide S 
Claim Jumper S 
Colonial Ear Wax T 
Coyotes in the Henhouse S 
Dos Dose T 
Green Goblin T 
Hangin' Judge, The S 
Lady Luck S 
Lucky Cuss S 
Mad Season S 
Necktie Party S 
One Armed Bandit S 
Papper, The S 
Public Hanging S 

Bum Steer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Roger Stephens, July 1997
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Phil at the crux of Bum Steer (5.10a), Holcomb Val...

Description 

A short ways left of Claim Jumper is this fairly long route that, like it's neighbor, weaves it's way up the face. Boulder up positive edges at the start and then head left to the rounded arete with a distinct crux at the 5th bolt (going straight up is possible but harder). Once past the crux, the holds get huge as the bolts become fairly spaced apart making for an exhilarating finish.

The climbing on this is decent but a number of holds are suspect and may break, including holds at the crux, so heads up. More traffic will help to clean this up and possibly improve the quality of the route.

Protection 

7 bolts, sport anchors


Photos of Bum Steer Slideshow Add Photo
Chris midway on Bum Steer, 5.10a.
Chris midway on Bum Steer, 5.10a.
Phil on Bum Steer (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. <br />
Phil on Bum Steer (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacle...
Phil at the anchors of Bum Steer (5.10a) high above Holcomb Valley.
Phil at the anchors of Bum Steer (5.10a) high abov...
The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.

Comments on Bum Steer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007

Man, Chris, I'm glad it's a member of the FA team leaving a description like that! I really enjoy this climb - fun and representative of the 10a's at Holcomb. But I'm still at the stage were I feel like a big boy anytime I redpoint a 10, ha ha.
By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 13, 2013

The climb is a good one, but the anchors are jacked (now?) because the cold-links on the anchor lie flat against the rock. DO NOT THREAD THESE LINKS FOR A LOWER OR RAPPEL, thread the anchors directly and rappel.

Would someone PLEASE add a couple of 3/8" quick-links to this mess? We didn't have two with us or we would have.

I'll delete some of this when the fix is posted.

Erik
By Clif Clap
Jul 25, 2014

Like other routes on this wall, I'd say this one could be easy to misread.

Unlike Claim Jumper, I read this one correctly. I enjoyed the mantle to end the crux and looked down at my last draw to consider the runout, noting mentally how far that fall would be. Feet are great once on the bulge past the fifth bolt though and overall a well-protected route.