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> Secret Garden
> Tiger Stripe Boulder
Bully
V11-12 YDS 8A+ Font
Avg: 4 from 6
votes
Routes in Tiger Stripe Boulder
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50 Shades of Spray V13 8B |
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Bling V14 8B+ |
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Bully V11-12 8A+ |
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Bully Stand V9 7C |
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Campus Problem V5 6C |
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Ching V12 8A+ |
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Ciao V11-12 8A+ |
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Lance's Scary V7 7A+ |
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Noogie V13 8B |
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Shingles V10 7C+ |
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Shingles Stand Start V4+ 6B+ |
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Space V0 4 |
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Wedgie V11 8A |
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| Type: | Boulder, 18 ft (5 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Webb late 1990's |
| Page Views: | 3,714 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | skinny legs and all on Dec 11, 2013 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area.
Details
During the SCLA/Access Fund Adopt-a-Crag Event (Fall 2007), climbers built a new trail from the Little Cottonwood Park-and-Ride. The trail provides easy access to lower canyon bouldering and climbing at the Bongeater and Crescent Crack Buttresses. To avoid traffic problems on the highway and tickets from the Utah Department of Transportation, please use the Park-and-Ride parking to access lower canyon bouldering and climbing. UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Were you a bully in school? If so, your physical prowess may help on this demanding bloc. Bully is the most classic problem of its grade in Little Cottonwood, and one of the best in Utah. It ranks as one of the most king lines I have ever seen. Bully has seen to date only three flashes. First by the Austrian Klem Loskot in the early 2000's. Ethan Pringle flashed it in April 2007, and the 17 year old Brit Ty Landman flashed it in May 2008. To my knowledge, Bully has not yet seen a female ascent, though there are certainly women out there who are capable. This incredibly powerful line will make anyone drool and want to become a stronger boulderer. Bully is just about every strong Salt Lake City climber's lifetime dream project.
Bully is described as a variation to Shingles, but it is really the main line on the Tiger Stripe boulder. It links Shingles (V9) into Lance's Scary (V7).
To climb Bully, begin by sit starting on Shingles and do the crux deadpoint. This is a one move V9 or V10 in its own right. Take the juggy three finger crimp pocket with the right hand instead of the left hand, which is what you would do to finish Shingles. Then make an extremely powerful (even more powerful than the crux deadpoint on Shingles) move way left to a sidepull rail which is relatively large and flat. It will help to have a positive ape index as well as strong shoulder and back muscles for this particular movement. Though the holds are big for a 45 degree overhang, the problem is that all of the feet are far apart and/or face the wrong way. Fight to keep your feet on, or re-establish them on the wall. Drop the right knee low, and snag a rounded slopey crimp with the right hand. This marks the start of the problem Lance's Scary which is a V7 in it's own right. If you are climbing the above named problem, it starts off of the rock in the landing on the ground. Pad this rock well, as you will probably fly off and slam into it. You will want to have this finish dialed. Bump the left hand up to the highest part of the rail and bust the right hand up to a flat matchable edge which is the redpoint crux. All of the grips are far apart and the moves are long, though the holds are quite good for a climb of this grade. Match on the two pad flat edge and pull over the lip to the vertical wall above, then continue up the tall easy slab.
If you can bully Bully, you deserve a pat on the back, and I will buy you a beer.
Bully is described as a variation to Shingles, but it is really the main line on the Tiger Stripe boulder. It links Shingles (V9) into Lance's Scary (V7).
To climb Bully, begin by sit starting on Shingles and do the crux deadpoint. This is a one move V9 or V10 in its own right. Take the juggy three finger crimp pocket with the right hand instead of the left hand, which is what you would do to finish Shingles. Then make an extremely powerful (even more powerful than the crux deadpoint on Shingles) move way left to a sidepull rail which is relatively large and flat. It will help to have a positive ape index as well as strong shoulder and back muscles for this particular movement. Though the holds are big for a 45 degree overhang, the problem is that all of the feet are far apart and/or face the wrong way. Fight to keep your feet on, or re-establish them on the wall. Drop the right knee low, and snag a rounded slopey crimp with the right hand. This marks the start of the problem Lance's Scary which is a V7 in it's own right. If you are climbing the above named problem, it starts off of the rock in the landing on the ground. Pad this rock well, as you will probably fly off and slam into it. You will want to have this finish dialed. Bump the left hand up to the highest part of the rail and bust the right hand up to a flat matchable edge which is the redpoint crux. All of the grips are far apart and the moves are long, though the holds are quite good for a climb of this grade. Match on the two pad flat edge and pull over the lip to the vertical wall above, then continue up the tall easy slab.
If you can bully Bully, you deserve a pat on the back, and I will buy you a beer.
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