Bullwinkle Craters 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Ed Esmond, 4/98 |
| Submitted By: | Jake D. on Feb 19, 2007 |
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Me mid route on Bullwinkles
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Description Route starts up the steep juggy overhang then you pull onto the slab (crux) at the last bolt.
Location Far left end of Below New Wave. Be aware of ice falling out of the cave to the left during the winter/spring.
Protection 4 bolts, chains to lower off. You may want to stick clip the first bolt for the bouldery start.
Pulling the crux... go hard or go for a short ride...
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lily high stepping
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Strong Jon rock climbing.
www.bagleyheavybags.blog...
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| Comments on Bullwinkle Craters |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 20, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c
| This is one of those peculiar routes that on some days feels pretty casual and on others feels totally heinous. The top out should not be underestimated (that is, unless you are having one of those good days). |
By Kayte Knower
Mar 3, 2007
| I really like this route. Some of the holds are a little sharp, but the moves are great and the top out is memorable. Shorties are nice too. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007
| There is now a new 4 bolt route just to the left that pulls a steep juggy boulder problem onto an easy face called Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic 5.9. It is possible to run this into Air and Pleasant Danger for a long link up if you don't mind running it out through a bit of vegetated choss in between (stay left of arete, skipping the start crux of A & P D ). Be careful when lowering if you do this. You may need a 70m to lower completely |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.11b
| This route was named for a moose that fell off of the ledge of regular New Wave, landing below this route. RIP Moose... |
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