Bullwhip days 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | FA: M. Leblanc, G. Losier 1996, FFA: D. Caron, A. Dowding June 2012 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Dom on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control MORE INFO >>>
Some of the crags in this area are on Canadian Military land. Members of UNB Rock and Ice Club need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass. 506 422-2000 ext 3121
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description Technical face climbing right of Astroboy Direct. Start at the rap station at the base of Astroboy direct and traverse on a horizontal crack to get to a bolted face split by more horizontal cracks. Bring small cams for the horizontal cracks. Nothing bigger than a 0.75 BD was used on the FFA. Bolted by A. Morgan.
Location Climb Waterwalk or Trundling by Moonlight or Sparky start variation. From the ledge aim for anchor at the base of Astroboy Direct. Your belayer can belay from the other anchor (more comfy)
Protection 3 bolts+gear and Bolted anchor.
Look lower in the comments box for the exact gear I used on the FFA.
| Comments on Bullwhip days |
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By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Jun 27, 2012
| Gear beta.
clip the Astroboy direct anchor. In the first horizontal put a 0.3BD, then a 0.4 BD. clip the bolt. In the next horizontal. Slot a grey metolius, then a 0.75 BD. clip the next two bolts. Then in a long horizontal jug, place a 0.4 BD. Just after place a purple metolius in a small alcove. Finally place a 0.5 in a jug on the left. Medium nuts could also be used in a nice vertical crack here. Voilą! All this in 60ft of climbing |
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