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This climb is usually toproped after doing something easier around it. It is hard for the grade, and has some interesting gear. The climbing is fantastic, however.
to the top of the short, right-facing corner. Move over to the shallow right-facing corner system and work your way to a small stance. Work up the corner to an undercling, and then up to a horizontal at the first overhang. Move up left into the crux overhanging corner, then over last overhang and up the face to the pine tree.
Same start as Balrog
, just uphill and to the right of V3
near a large boulder pile.
Descent: Rap off of fixed anchor at pine tree. A single 60m rope is fine.
small stuff, pebbly gear placements throughout the climb