A great, reclaimed route at the Bulletheads. The first pitch is so-so, but after that three pitches of quality 5.10 crack climbing await. Nice shady ledges offer a relaxing environment, and the descent is easy with raps. This is sure to become a popular route!
A short rap is required when rapping P3 (intermediate chains down and right). A short rap is also required to hit the ground. Even with a 70m rope. See the topos.
Thread on Squamish Climbing about the route
Topo on Jeremy Frimer's Site
Topo on Quickdraw Publication's Website
P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay.
P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m
P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux.
P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it.
Campground wall, just up from the campground. Look for the well scrubbed line about 50-100' left of Rainy Day Dream Away. The are shiny rap anchors about 20' off the ground on a ledge which helps locate the start.
Standard double rack from nuts to #3 camalot.
|By Mike Teschke|
From: North Vancouver
Aug 7, 2011
Fantastic route. The first pitch is a direct way to get to the bottom of the rest of the route without hiking and traversing the Slot Machine ledge. The next three pitches are fantastic, I would call pitch#2 5.10c, pitch#3 5.10c, and pitch#4 5.10b. The big offwidth chimney groove is to the left of the last pitch.
I had doubles of everything up to #2 C4 one #3 and a selection of finger sized gear, it was more than enough, only the first 5.9 pitch has bad rope drag potential if you don't use some long slings.
If you don't want to rap the route, the walk off is not so bad. There is a fixed line in the wet corner, you could set up a rap off of trees if you don't like the look of it. After that it's a pretty straight forward scramble through the manana and slot machine areas.
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Did this one yesterday. Pitch 2 was the crux for me. Middle crack on p3 felt like 10a, short crux and good finger jams. Climbed the chimney for the final pitch and you can get away with max. of one #3 camalot/#4 friend size, no need for double anything.
Worth noting too that this ends up on the ledge right below the Corazon Face so you have the choice to add on one of 3 10d bolted face climbs or a 10a dike traverse for a 5th pitch.
|By Crotch Robbins|
Jul 15, 2012
Can Rainy Day Dream Away be used to access bullethead ledge and then linked into pitches two through four of Bulletheads East? Might make for a more consistent route though the first 5.9 pitch has character.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 10, 2012
Repeated the route, and wow... is it good. Great long pitches separated by comfy ledges. On top of P2 plan to build a gear anchor if you are going for the right 10c option... for the left stembox you can use the tree.
I was pleased to have some extra #0.5 camalot/red alien sizes. On the P2 10c.. after pulling the roof the gear is sparse for a few moves, but I was then able to get a solid red alien at the base of the upper finger crack.
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Awesome climb! One of my favourites on the chief. I thought the 5.9 was even very high quality and a little bit tricky. Three pitches of 10c (we did the middle pitch for pitch 3 and the right-hand pitch for pitch 4). Each 10c is difficult in a different way - pitch 2 is sustained above the roof but doesn't have an extremely hard move on it - expect to place out of fairly strenuous stances. Pitch 3 has a tough lower crux with potential for feet skating but then eases off significantly. Pitch 4 is just awkward. It's probably the most secure of the three 5.10 pitches, but also the hardest work. We finished with the dyke traverse version of Ride the bullet. Highly recommended 10a that ends up right on the edge of the bullethead. Rapping Manana with a 60m rope took 2 raps. Looked like a 70m might have made it in 1 rap.
|By geoff georges|
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pitch 1) FA: Peter Croft, Jim Campbell, Allen Tate, 1979. 5.9
Pitch 2-4) FA: Fred Beckey, Jim Sinclair, 1966. 10c A1
I climbed this in 2012 with the middle finger crack on pitch 3, and the right crack on the 4th pitch, which I thought was the last pitch of Rainy Day Woman, but that is further right. The original BE finish is the chimney, but the right side crack is great.
Returned early this June and did the Pitch 3 stem box variation which is awesome.