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Bull Run 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randy Garcia and David Powers, Sept 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: Dima on Aug 5, 2011
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Description 

The route starts between Black Flies and Greenpeace and follows a diagonal line to the Great Arch. Anchors are just below the roof.
Start in the somewhat dirty corner with rotten rock. Follow cracks up and left to a less steep terrain. Traverse left to bolt. At the bolt climb stigt up the corner (crux) to gain finger crack. Layback crack to the anchors.


Location 

The route is located between Black Flies and Greenpeace and starts under the middle of the Great Arch, in a somewhat dirty corner.


Protection 

From midsize cams to small cams. One bolt in the middle (crux). There is new 2 bolt anchor on top.



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By Dima
Aug 5, 2011

Randy and David, please feel free to correct my description. The difficulty rating is what Mark told me you told him :). I think it's harder than 10b because of couple moves at the bolt.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

The bottom starts up a short bit of very easy funky slabby crack before you get to the bulge with the small corner. The rock is somewhat crumbly here, but the gear looked OK. The moves are relatively easy here too. Once through this bulge, the rock quality goes way up through the fun crux and upper corner with it's nice layback finger locks. ..a good route, with the only down side being the short crumbly patch. Another going over with a brush and scraper would do it wonders, but well worth getting on in it's present state.

By David Powers
Aug 24, 2011

Hi Dima, Thanks for adding the route. Lets go with Bull Run for a name. Go with what ever you think is appropriate for a grade.

By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Aug 26, 2013

Definitly harder than 10b/c. Not sure how hard though as I couldn't get the move past the bolt :)

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Were you or others drilling Sunday? While I was scrubbing my crack project (100 ft 5.11? finger crack) over at the Land of Cracks I could have sworn I heard drilling for a moment. It could have been somebody drilling timbers or something down at the pond as I heard hammering down there, or maybe even over at Owl's.
Save a day to come out to the NE crags in a couple weeks, Tom. Only an hr 10min hike, no biking. I think you will really like it.