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This route is just right of Little Stevie's Favorite Heifer, which goes up a tan quartz dike. It starts by a steep lichenous face and is somewhat desperate looking on the lower half.
Clip a bolt on a slab, make a long reach up the steep face to a second bolt, then power into the steep face and clip a third bolt. Going directly past this third bolt is the obvious line, and very hard, while decent holds exist a bit to the right. The rightward way is probably mid-5.11, and passes the third bolt just left of your shoulder, before hand traversing back to the fourth bolt. Once the fourth bolt is clipped, continue on easier terrain, pass a contrived lieback and two more bolts, and gain chains that are shared with the route to the left.
This route offers only a tiny bit of hard climbing, for the visiting hardperson.
Seven bolts to an anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Taken from directly below the route, where the tra...
Steve getting tricky...unsuccessfully :)
Jables fightin' the Bull.
|By PATRICK THOMPSON|
Jun 1, 2002
I am hesitant to claim this route, because it is such a contrived steaming pile, but it is obvious I bolted it. I think it goes at mid 12, but I was not able to do crux. I dislike this route so much that I will at least move 3rd and 4th bolt to right for a little better route or remove them all together probably sometime this summer. Sorry for the pile.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Relax, the route cleaned up a little over the last few years- some of the holds have broken off, some becoming worse, some becoming better. I'll go with ~5.12b if done 'to the left.' The moves are pretty hard and the 3rd clip would be made from a not-so-nice crimper, or from the semi-sloper above. Definitely a heads up! It might be better just to skip it & make a few more moves to the jugs and clip #4.
|By Kat A|
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 25, 2006
My partner and I accidentally ended up at Mine Hole on our way to Animal World. We tried this route without any info on it and had a blast trying to get past the crux at the 3rd bolt. A bit relieved to see this is rated 5.12b, since neither of us made it over by going to the left.
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
May 14, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I liked the crux sequence on this route actually, and it did not occur to me that I could cheat right until someone else pointed it out (I also thought this was a 5.10 when I started up it so take that for what it's worth). Being 6ft and taller is definitely an advantage on this route.
Aug 5, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Hard to rate this one as it is basically a couple move boulder problem. The sloper for the right hand has a slight bit of a thumb catch that helps a bit. Fun throw to the hold above the bulge. I'm pretty tall, which definitely seemed to help, as I was able to use good feet for the throw.