2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route is just right of Little Stevie's Favorite Heifer, which goes up a tan quartz dike. It starts by a steep lichenous face and is somewhat desperate looking on the lower half.
Clip a bolt on a slab, make a long reach up the steep face to a second bolt, then power into the steep face and clip a third bolt. Going directly past this third bolt is the obvious line, and very hard, while decent holds exist a bit to the right. The rightward way is probably mid-5.11, and passes the third bolt just left of your shoulder, before hand traversing back to the fourth bolt. Once the fourth bolt is clipped, continue on easier terrain, pass a contrived lieback and two more bolts, and gain chains that are shared with the route to the left.
This route offers only a tiny bit of hard climbing, for the visiting hardperson.
I am hesitant to claim this route, because it is such a contrived steaming pile, but it is obvious I bolted it. I think it goes at mid 12, but I was not able to do crux. I dislike this route so much that I will at least move 3rd and 4th bolt to right for a little better route or remove them all together probably sometime this summer. Sorry for the pile.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 14, 2006 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b
Relax, the route cleaned up a little over the last few years- some of the holds have broken off, some becoming worse, some becoming better. I'll go with ~5.12b if done 'to the left.' The moves are pretty hard and the 3rd clip would be made from a not-so-nice crimper, or from the semi-sloper above. Definitely a heads up! It might be better just to skip it & make a few more moves to the jugs and clip #4.
By Kat A From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO Jul 25, 2006
My partner and I accidentally ended up at Mine Hole on our way to Animal World. We tried this route without any info on it and had a blast trying to get past the crux at the 3rd bolt. A bit relieved to see this is rated 5.12b, since neither of us made it over by going to the left.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.127b+27VIII+26E6 6b
By Jason Haas From: Broomfield, CO May 14, 2009 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
I liked the crux sequence on this route actually, and it did not occur to me that I could cheat right until someone else pointed it out (I also thought this was a 5.10 when I started up it so take that for what it's worth). Being 6ft and taller is definitely an advantage on this route.
By slim Administrator Aug 5, 2009 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
Hard to rate this one as it is basically a couple move boulder problem. The sloper for the right hand has a slight bit of a thumb catch that helps a bit. Fun throw to the hold above the bulge. I'm pretty tall, which definitely seemed to help, as I was able to use good feet for the throw.