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Dozier Dome
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Unsorted Routes:

Bull Dozier 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,460
Submitted By: Karl K on Aug 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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BETA PHOTO: A party (Joe and Joven) on the final pitch of Bull...

Description 

Right leaning crack starts off ledge about 30' up
Climb 5.6 friction (no pro) straight up to slightly right-leaning crack [or it looks like a corner system just to the left is protectable - then traverse right].
First pitch - good pro & moves to sloping ledge - 195' 5.7
2nd & 3rd pitches As per J. Albers (from comments)
The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for.
The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts.
Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb.
Cheers.

Location 

About 50' right of Holdless Horror (not the crack 20' right - thats "Side Out 5.8R)

Protection 

Standard trad rack
Mostly finger to hand sizes


Photos of Bull Dozier Slideshow Add Photo
Bull Dozier follows the obvious crack system in the center of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Bull Dozier follows the obvious crack system in th...

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By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 7, 2009

I got run off after the first pitch by a thunderstorm: easy 2 rope rope off chain anchors 15' right on that sloping ledge; any info on the 2nd & 3rd pitches appreciated.
I liked the first pitch better than Holdless Horror.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Karl,
The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for.
The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts.
Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb.
Cheers.
By aliebling
Jul 24, 2011

First two pitches are fantastic for a 5.7 leader. Just lovely and very secure climbing.

In early season, go all the way left to the waterfall for the walkoff and you can take off your shoes and walk down the waterfall almost all the way. Best walk off ever!
By powderfinger
From: san mateo
Jul 25, 2011

Did the walk off yesterday and would NOT suggest walking down the actual waterfall. The water may only be a few inches deep at points but it sure is swift. A slip and a tumble and say goodbye. Instead, when you walk off the slabs from the dome to the water walk upstream, cross over on a few rocks and continue across and down the slabs on the other side. These slabs end in the trees where there is a trail. Follow the trail down the side of the waterfall. There are some great safe pools of water on this side if you want to go for a dip. When you reach the bottom of the falls cross the creek (or go for another swim) and it puts you about even with the base of the dome. Walk off with swimming+climb=nice day.
By aliebling
Jul 31, 2011

The water level and flow is quite likely up further than when we did it.

Also to clarify, we didn't walk down the steep/scary portions (especially the slab waterfall right before one cuts right to return to the base of the climbs). One should obviously use common sense (and avoid the really steep parts). We considered most of the water perfectly safe to walkoff through but YMMV.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Jun 20, 2012

better than holdless but not as long.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Two very good long 5.7 (UK 4b) pitches - never hard, lots of gear but quite sustained. Recommended to visitors as a good, non-scary introduction to Tuolumne climbing. To avoid rope drag probably best to belay using gear in the crack on the big ledge (level with the bolts that are 20' right of the corner).
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jul 22, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

One of the BEST easy (definitely not 5.7 by Yosemite standards) routes in Tuolumne. IMHO better than Holdless Horror. Awesome crack in the finger and thin hand (mostly) range.
By Crimpanzee
From: San Francisco, California
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route, and better than Holdless Horror IMO with only a slightly harder grade. Be careful of the knobs inside cracks...nuts might be wedged by these but not touching enough sides of rock to be completely secure.