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These three crags sit on the same hillside facing SW. The routes are mostly short (less than 80 feet) trad and mixed routes requiring some natural protection, often toprope-able. The grades range from 5.7-5.11. Although the 15+ possible routes here are not the best in this area, the Green Slab (5.9+) on Buick Rocks 1st Buttress and an unnamed face route (5.10) on Buick Rocks 2nd Buttress are worthwhile climbs. The approach is a short but loose rocky trail up from the pullout.
From the Shelly Cottage turnoff follow County Road 80 about .6 miles, 0.1 miles past the Entryway slabs. Pullout on the left or right and hike up to the right to the crags.
9 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life:
Initial Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Green Slab 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
The Buick 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
Green Slab 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO : Lyons : ... : Buick Rocks and Hitler's Se...
This is a very fine route. The rock is the second small buttress to the left of Hitler's Sex Life, identified by a steep slab that is slightly tilted to the right, and about 100 yards up the loose trail from the road. Four well-spaced bolts lead up and right on crimpers to a chain anchor. The first bolt is a bit off the deck and is a tip-toe reach from the stance (for me at 6'1"). Descent: I ran the rope through the anchor and lowered off, but it might be best to belay from the top and walk...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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