Crimpier and more committing than it's neighbor, but still fun. Crimp, crimp, smaller crimp, gaston, crimp, dyno, mantle. Woohoo. Stand start right of the arete on two good crimps. Pull on, cross right hand up to a smaller crimp, work the feet, then gaston a good hold. Reach up right to a small white crimp and toss for a slopey jug at the lip. Mantle over the top to finish.
Just right of the Bugland Arete. Scramble down the smaller boulders or off left with the help of the tree to get down.
Pads & spotter
|Comments on Bugland Direct
Aug 2, 2010
Careful on the bottom. Went out there this weekend and the 4 foot flake at the bottom is pulling away from the wall. It moved about half an inch when my buddy pulled on the top! Went back though.
|By Brendan Blanchard|
From: Strafford, NH
Nov 26, 2012
This could probably clean up better than Bugland Arete because it can be started without the flexy flake. It will only get better with a little traffic.