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 ADVANCED
Snowpatch Spire
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Bugaboo Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 17 pitches, 2000', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1 [details]
FA: Ted Davies, Pat Derouin, and Ian Rowe, July 1971
Season: Hottest part of the Summer!
Page Views: 3,429
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Nov 25, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Bugaboo Corner on Snowpatch Spire Photo by MP cont...

Description 

INTRODUCTION

I met Ted Davies in Yosemite in 1975. He had just climbed the Salathe Wall on El Cap. His report was very positive about the quality of this line. If he and his buds thought it was similar to the Steck-Salalthe, we can believe it. Ted Davies Pat Derouin, and Ian Rowe were among the top alpine climbers in British Colombia during the early seventies.


Location 

Everyone sees it while ascending the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, but no one does it. Will anyone out there ever admit to taking this beauty all the way to the true summit? Besides the first ascent, I wonder how many successful ascents have even made to the lower North Summit? Bugaboo Rock, 1990, admits to uncertainty about the upper pitches,

Protection 

The first ascent party was very happy to discover small cracks on the inner walls of the chimney.


Photos of Bugaboo Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Bugaboo Corner Map contour interval: 100 feet  Red...
BETA PHOTO: Bugaboo Corner Map contour interval: 100 feet Red...
chimneys through the roofs
chimneys through the roofs

Comments on Bugaboo Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By hanshan
From: Canada Mofuga
Aug 30, 2011

This is definitely an old school 5.9 and is more like runout 5.10 by any definition. Wild and wide climbing though.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2012

I climbed it to the top of the namesake wide crack in the 80's, but we then rapped off since we had been to the N summit the day before. Does it really traverse left to the NE face as shown in the photo? I don't remember that. I thought maybe straight up the ridge?
By michael faith
From: Bellingham, WA
Nov 13, 2012

Does anyone have any beta about this route? What earns the C1 rating? Descent? Is the route sustained 5.9/5.10?