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This is the obvious layback crack immediately right of Max Factor. Prepare for wild, insecure barndoor moves with your feet at an old fixed pin. Other than that, this is a gem. Most people will layback the rounded edge of the flake-crack; however it can be climbed straight-on, jamming in the flared crack...very technical but probably more secure and safer.
Apparently the second pin was added after the first ascent, it is still a bit exhilarating with both fixed pins in place. The upper crack is tedious, thin, and technical; a person with yams for fingers may even call it 5.11. Probably TR'd most of the time, it is a worthy lead.
The crux is sketch-city, 2 fixed pins and little else. Get some gear in below the first pin at the horizontal break. A mediocre yellow metolius backs up the first pin. The upper part is protected with wireds to 1 or 2 inch cams. Chain anchors. You can TR this by climbing the 5.9 to the right, Baalbek.
In the sketchy bits. Yes, I've got rope issues. ...
|By Thom Engelbach|
May 20, 2003
You want to climb this thing on a cool day with low relative humidity. Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em.
|By Jesse Ryan|
Aug 18, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a R
Bug Squad is as fun on TR as Max Factor. Leading Bug Squad can be rewarding. It can also induce puckering. I can't tell you what falling off of Bug Squad might feel like.
|By lenore sparks|
From: Heidelberg, Germany
Sep 6, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Mr. Engelbach, I love you. That is obvious. However, I finally redpointed this today, a cold, semi-humid day, and it still felt hard.
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13
Wouldn't call it R. I backed up first pin by red c3 and purple Linkcam. Probably some yellow-green Alien offset would work instead of a Linkcam. Both are bomber pieces. Second pin backed up by green Linkcam. It was a blind placement that turned out very solid. Probably 0.5 BD or 0.75 would do the trick as well. And the second pin looks like it's actually gonna hold a fall. For me, the upper section was way more exciting but still very well protectable.
Excellent memorable climb anyway.