Bug Bananas 5.7
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Jeff Jones on Bug Bananas.
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Description A fairly casual line that starts up broken, lower-angled rock, then steepens a bit and provides positive edges. A semi-detached flake appears just left of the bolt line midway through the climb and holds provided by the flake keep the climbing easy.
Protection 6 closely spaced bolts, ring anchors. The first bolt is out-of-line (to the left) with the rest and not particularly useful.
Location Follow the trail on the east of the streambed up the canyon. After crossing the streambed the trail turns right and heads among a number of large evergreen trees.
This route will appear on the right side of a west-facing wall directly in front of you.
BETA PHOTO: Bug Bananas 5.7
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By Toby Hazelbaker
Jul 31, 2009
| While this route looks inviting - beware. The flake is quite loose, chossy all around, and the anchors are rickety. The left hanger spins and is drilled amongst a spider's web of cracks and the right bolt has had rock break out from around it. Sad to see such careless bolting - a real waste of some good anchors. |
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Sep 5, 2009
rating: 5.7+
| I didn't feel that this was all that badly bolted, but it wasn't the best bolting job, that's for sure. The anchors looked ok to me and I wasn't worried using them.
However, that flake is completely hollow and the whole route relies on it. It will come off one day, and I feel bad for whoever is belaying the person who knocks it off, because that will go badly. Unfortunately, the whole route relies on this flake and wouldn't be anything without it. That said, I thought the route was fun and interesting, with some weird slopey foot holds that make you want to double check before you put your weight on them. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 5, 2009
| I wonder why they didn't make this line go all the way to the top of the wall... |
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