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Foolproof Tower
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Animal Magnetism T 
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Buford's House of Liver 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Karen Wilson & Don Wilson, October 1988
Page Views: 780
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: "Buford's House Of Liver". Photo by Blit...

Description 

Thin edges, steep smears and balancy movement is the name of the game with this route that may be getting harder over time as some of the edges exfoliate. Two stars out of five.

Originally done with six bolts and a smattering of gear, this route was rebolted and the extra bolts added with the permission of the FA party to result in a fun and well-protected sport climb.

Location 

The face/arete just left of High Strung, an obvious widening crack on the east face of Foolproof Tower.

Protection 

9 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 13, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Funny, I added the Foolproof Tower with the intention of adding this and the other routes. Makes Run For Your Life/Runaway look easy and secure.
For my own part on this one, I was going to say it was a pile of crap with still exfoliating holds - this thing could go 5.13 some day. Maybe I got on it after a wet freeze-thaw cycle or something, but I snapped or gritted off both handholds and footholds. Hopefully my partner and I broke most of the crap off.
By Lee Clark
Apr 10, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Nice climb - well worth doing. The exfoliating flakes aren't really all that bad.
By Randy
May 1, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

We did it on a warm day and seemed pretty hard (past 3rd bolt). Hard to clip 4th bolt and moves past 8th bolt are 10d/11a.
By Murf
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The major holds seem solid at this point. As Randy mentions, clipping the 4th bolt is difficult and may be the crux or the route.
By Murf
Jan 18, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I noticed that all the grit that has fallen off this route is now contained in large bags at the base.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 18, 2009

Sandbags perhaps? Does this mean it's now rated 5.9+?
By Murf
Jan 18, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Absolutely!! Definately no more than 5.9+.
By Adam Kimmerly
Nov 9, 2009

Agree with Randy. I expected the route to ease up as the angle kicked back after the 4th bolt (which would indeed be hard to clip) but was wrong. Sustained, technical JTree slab climbing with big high steps on little edges in some spots and desperate smears in others higher up. All of the holds I used through the crux were solid. Definitely not a bomb and with the ample protection, it's well worth a shot if you're in the area.
By Ben Folsom
Dec 31, 2011

As of Dec. 2011 the edges seemed solid to me. Try Little Cottonwood sometime if you want to experience never ending exfoliation.