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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Gentlehoe S 
Black Streak TR 
Buffy S 
El Jefe S 
El Rancho  S 
Handcrack Corner T 
Huffy S 
La Cantina S 
Peer Pressure S 
Sweatpants in Public  S 
Unsorted Routes:

Buffy 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Erik Durgin
Season: Late summer/Fall
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Erik Durgin on Oct 24, 2012

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Description 

Better bring the big guns for the face melting, forearm bursting pump that this route packs!

Buffy is an alternate start to Huffy with more consistent and steeper climbing but slightly less difficult moves. The two routes meet at the midway crux of Huffy.

Start the same as A Gentlehoe for the first four bolts. At the good rest under the roof, bust right (first crux) with powerful lockoffs through good pockets to gain an ok rest at bolt #6. From here, pull into the midway crux of Huffy (second crux) to get the final rest at bolt #8 before the powerful and long ender crux of Huffy.

As for the grade, again I really have no clue. It seems to be just a bit more demanding than Huffy.

Location 

Do the same start as A Gentlehoe, 20 feet left of Huffy up the prominent, blue, left-facing corner.

Protection 

10 bolts plus chain anchors. Extended draws on bolts 2 through 7 help reduce rope drag and ease clipping.

A stick clip is highly recommended for the first bolt as the climbing is harder than it looks!

A left knee pad is useful but not necessary.


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By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Oct 25, 2012
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Eric bolted the first four bolts on lead and spent sh!t tons of days cleaning this badass route. It is really fun and clean for Cascade's standards. Good job, Eric, thanks for the awesome route.