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Peyote Cracks Formation - E. Face (aka Bachar Toprope Wall)
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Buffalo Soldier 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: (TR) Mike Lechlinksi, FL: Scott Cosgrove, November 1987
Page Views: 418
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Jan 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Buffalo Soldier topo

Description 

A very crimpy crux down low, leads to easier, but not by much, climbing via shallow (but good) scares/face holds towards the top. A short jog left near the top finishes. The rock quality is not on par with some of the other routes on this wall (at least when I worked it in 1996). Not often done.


Location 

This is the last route on the far righthand side of the wall (although there is appears to a bolted route right of it, unknown)


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor



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By Randy
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Route is rated 12c. You might want to bring a couple pieces to supplement the bolts (in the crack above 2nd bolt). The other bolted routes to the right are in the guidebook (Joshua Tree West).

One star of 4 or barely 2 stars of 5.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Not a classic but the moves are good and definitely in your face. The crux is a horrendous gaston move down low but there's still some trickery above. Two stars out of five.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 26, 2009

RV, I thought I saw a bolt or three just a few feet right of BS, on the same rock (not the rock that has Take the Pain) but I'll double check next time I'm out there.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

There's a 5.10a route with 2 bolts not too far right of this route which could be what you're thinking of.

By Scott Cosgrove
Sep 4, 2013

If Mike did this first, it's news to me, as when I did the first ascent he certainly had not climbed it yet. He did try it on TR as I remember, but never straight through and declared it crap. LOL. Maybe I'm wrong and knowing how worked up Mike gets about these things, I could clearly not be remembering things correctly. After all it was 27 years ago.

It's not a quality line but needed to be climbed, hard crux and shares the start as Tribal Warfare, that is a much cooler route.