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Helen's Dome
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A Nice Top Rope TR 
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 
Borderline Boulevard  T 
Brave Cowboy T 
Buffalo Soldier T,S 
Buffalo Tears T 
Electric Koolaid Acid Test  T 
Face Value T 
Fool's Gold T,S 
Fractured Fairytales S 
Gettin' the Groove S 
On the Bus T 
Pebble Beach T,TR 
Spree T,S 
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Unknown on South Face T 

Buffalo Soldier 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Dunblazier & Kathy
Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: slim on Oct 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Andy Donson, Buffalo Soldier.

Description 

To find this route, locate the directions for "Fool's Gold", listed on this site. Approximately 20 feet to the left is a line of bolts. This is the first line of bolts that you will see when going left from "Fool's Gold".

First bolt is pretty high, but supposedly somebody added it fairly recently. If that is indeed the case, the old first bolt was up in minor cratering territory.

Climb straight up the line of bolts with sustained climbing on superb small edges and flakes. Some of the bolts are kind of hard to see (the 2nd in particular), due to the color blending with the rock. The climbing is pretty sustained and the bolts are far apart, and getting further apart the higher you go.

Rap from double bolts with 2 ropes, or take a water groove to the top (5.7 to 5.9, sparse pro).

Protection 

8 draws and a couple runners should do it. Not really a sport route, but doesn't require gear.


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

If you liked this route, you might also enjoy the nearby "Buffalo Tears."
By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 30, 2008

Tony:
When you say "nearby", could you be more specific? Is it to the left of Buffalo Soldier? Any beta would be greatly appreciated.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

As I recall from years ago, it was adjascent or nearly so. But I didn't add it to the DB, becuase my memory was too vague on details. I think it is in the older guidebooks though. I climbed it with Gary Stettler in 1995 or 1996 and we thought the 2 routes were similar. I think Gary is still around and maybe you can locate him on this group?