All thought this area looks promising for climbing, it should not be done. By climbing in an area that considers it illegal, you hurt access to all other areas. Be respectful. If access is desired, contact your local climbing organization for help.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This area has a lot of potential for becoming a great place to top-rope, trad climb, and crack climbing.
Right now not much is developed out there, but still a great place to get outside and practice crack climbing.
In the main climbing, area which is behind the Snake Indian mound, it is incredibly shady and cool. This makes it a great spot to go climb for a few hours in the shade.
This place is usually uncrowded due to most of the attention being drawn to its sister park Starved Rock.
Rock quality can be pretty poor in sections so stick to the cracks for good climbing.
Camping - Camping is closed right now.
There are three primitive camping areas along the trail between Buffalo Rock and Utica. The campsites have fire rings but no water or restroom facilities are available. Sites are accessible by walk or bike in only, no vehicular access is allowed. One of the camping areas designed for youth camping has a shelter with a fireplace. There are no campsites to reserve. Just open areas where people camp.
From Ottawa: From Rte. 6 turn south on W.D. Boyce Memorial Dr. Continue on Boyce to Ottawa Ave. and turn right. Proceed on Ottawa Ave., which becomes Dee Bennett Rd for approximately three miles, the park is located on the left and the I&M Canal Access area is on the right.
From Utica: Take Dee Bennett Rd. east five miles to Buffalo Rock.
Approach to the main is quite simple. Walk on the main trail that goes out to the "Effigy Tumuli". Right behind the Snake mound walk to the edge to see all the cliffs.
Climbing in buffalo rock state park should be a top rope only.the rock quality is extremely poor, as is the rock at its neighboring parks , Starved Rock, and Mathessien State Park. There is no rock climbing at Starved Rock or Mathessien, and I'm pretty sure Buffalo has not opened its doors to climbing yet either, due to the poor quality of the rock. If you climb in these parks, expect to get fined, and or possibly hurt from rockfall. The chossy sandstone in this area is well known for breaking easily. if it was good for climbing, there would be guidebooks, and named routes, and legal climbing.