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Buffalo Nickel 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Rob Rives on Sep 24, 2012

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The wondrous worm hole!

Description 

P1 - Start as for Boardwalk, climbing straight up to the low set of rappel anchors. From here, head straight up and bypass the roof on the right, climbing either the large corner above or (more fun and less dirty) the face directly right of the large corner. Belay on healthy ledge.

P2 - Head straight up through large and completely detached blocks. Be careful, pull lightly! Escape left through a hole and traverse left to the Broach anchors.

Logistically, this route is easier to run into a single pitch. Be smart with your rope management.


Location 

Locate the large corner on the left of Boardwalk's face. That's your target!


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By Stuart Parker
From: asheville NC
Aug 29, 2013

This climb is fantastic! I would go as far as to call it a classic! If for nothing else, do it for the worm hole!