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Beer Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12-pack Link S 
Buddha's Beer Belly S 
BYOB S 
El Beerto S 
It's Time to Drink Beer S 
Little Kings S 
Tecate Two-Step S 
Texas Whine S 
Thing, The S 
To Beer or Not to Beer S 
Village Cobbler S 
Whipper Wonderland S 

Buddha's Beer Belly 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Apr 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

I had originally put off doing this route because it looks so bad from the ground. However the rock isn't nearly as bad as it looks and the movement is quite fun. The business portion of this route is short with good holds and powerful reaches between them. While it looks a little scary from the ground the clipping holds are all quite positive negating any scariness.

Location 

Start to the left of a tree between the routes It's Time to Drink Beer and Tecate Two-Step.

Protection 

4 bolts to anchors


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By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Jun 15, 2010

FA Lance Hadfield
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Does this thing have its own anchors? I thought the movement was pretty fun (probably worth 2 stars), but making the 20-foot traverse left to Village Cobbler seemed a bit silly. According to the picture in Rock Climbing New Mexico, the climb should have its own anchors, but I couldn't spot them from the ground or from the fourth bolt.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 8, 2011

My memory's a bit hazy but I'm pretty sure that this has its own anchors. They may be over the top after things slab out, and hard to spot until you are almost to the top.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 12, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Thanks, DTP. I took another look at this today, and the route indeed has its own anchors: well-hidden cold shuts.
By NEH
Sep 10, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a quality route! Fun boulder problem that doesn't really let up until you pull onto the slab. Stick clipping the second bolt may be a good idea on this one.
By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Apr 30, 2012

The anchors are black cold shuts above and right of the last bolt, hard to see from the ground.