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 ADVANCED
North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
An Eye For an Eye T,S 
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 
Panacea Roof S 
Remedy S 
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 
Unknown far left S 
Walk The Line T 
Unsorted Routes:

Buddha Bukstein Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jun 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Rhoads.

No longer private property. See below.

Description 

Tall climb with the full top out. Start in the crack and go slightly right to under the roof. Go right of the roof straight up to a ledge. Find a crack system on your right (look to your right for the rap chains) and take it to the top.

Location 

Crack system between "Remedy" and "Eye for an Eye".

Protection 

Solid rack up to #4 C4. Rap chains to the right and down from the top out.


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By Tradoholic
Jun 17, 2010

Sure this has been done but I gave it a name, please let me know if it is known as something different.

Be careful of some loose rock higher up. We rapped off the chains to the right of the route with room to spare on a 70m, looked like a 60m would make it but barely.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 23, 2010

The beginning of this looked a bit pumpy for a 5.8.

How did you start this out Nick?
By Tradoholic
Jun 23, 2010

Straight up the crack bro. Definite technical crux at the start. "Old School" 5.8
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 23, 2010

That's what I thought. Didnt look 5.8 at all at the beginning. It was pretty much blank on either side of the crack for like 15 feet. I'll give it a go when Paul goes back there with me.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
May 25, 2012

You can take the early exit left and hit the chains for An Eye For An Eye. I wouldn't suggest it, as the route gets pretty damn awesome by that roof. Also, there was a huge and funky bee or wasp or hornet hive thing by the anchors, so we took the overhanging crack left of the anchors. 5.7ish stuff on junky rock with decent pro. Fantastic route in my book.
By Tradoholic
May 26, 2012

That's how I originally finished this, before the bees nest was there. Were there bees on it? Check my pic on the main page to see it in it's full glory.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
May 26, 2012

You haven't seen it in its full glory. I'll have to go back to get a picture.