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Eagle Rock
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Buddha Belly 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: bolted & FA by Mark Rolofson, FFA Jorg Strassner, 1998
Page Views: 3,954
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Dan Levison sending Buddha Belly.

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  • Description 

    A burly overhang 20 feet right of Golden Eagle, not the route just right. Work up to a big hollow overlap, then battle through flared cracks and sidepulls to a final layback up a smooth crack/groove. Strenuous, insecure, and complicated. Stays in the shade until 1 pm. Don't even think about it in the sun unless it's pretty cold. A real classic.

    Protection 

    10 bolts.


    Comments on Buddha Belly Add Comment
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    By Jim Redo
    Aug 21, 2002

    5.13a -no b about it.
    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 22, 2008

    Eagle Rock, a really good place as there is, a 10a, 10b 10c, 11a.....leading right up to it for warmups. Better be good at vert up high. It is a great route complete with funkyness and all! Also try Vasodialator and Nevermore (yeesh!) in the canyon.
    By Pinklebear
    Sep 30, 2010

    Such a cool route. I've had a love/hate thing with it for a while. If you put your hands just where they need to be in those flared, slanting cracks, you'll love it (you also need to bring your feet up in a specific way). If you put them in the wrong spots, you'll hate it.

    The thing is, it takes awhile to find the right spots. (Read: stout for 13a....)
    By Mark Rolofson
    Dec 11, 2012
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Here's the FA & FFA info on this fine route. I bolted the route & then made several one hang ascents in October 1998. I returned to the route on two warm days in December 1998 with visiting German climber Jorg Strassner. With draws on the route and my beta, Jorg redpointed the route on December 4, 1998. Two days later it snowed.
    I finally returned & redpointed the route in September 2001. I think the route is harder than 5.13a & rated it 5.13b in my last guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".
    "Buddha Belly" is harder than any other .13a in Boulder Canyon. Compare it to "Sinopia", "Nevermore", "Flying Beast", "Green Panther", "Give The Dog A Bone", or "Vasodilator". The route is quite sustained, especially the top half up - the powerful, sequential lieback. There are three section of .12a/b up to the .12c/d crux at the 8th bolt. After making it through the crux, I found it hard to shake out at 9th bolt but managed to after finding the right position to straight arm off the seam. The lieback finish is .12a/b.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Dec 13, 2012

    Thanks, Mark! I am going to go with Monsieur Pinklebear on this one. Hard for the grade but not 13b.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 25, 2014
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    Just a question, because I am not nearly to the status of most of the climbers that have commented on here, but I have done Nevermore and Tiger's Woody and been on Black and Tan and Double Stout and Interstellar Overdrive and Third Millenium and Choose Life and Thunder Muscle...you get the picture. I feel that this route is much much harder than Tiger's and Nevermore (Both 13a's). Am I crazy or did I just really really mess up the beta at the top of this route?
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 25, 2014
    rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

    And I did all the moves on the climb...so I'd like to break it down the way I thought it went and I'd love to hear your opinions and thoughts. First moves to the break where the right hand jug is...(5.12c). Moves into the technical slots combined with the 12c before it (5.13a). Then the finishing move with after the stem rest...I basically smeared a foot on a small chip and stood up and went into a layback with the right hand and desperately got a right hand up right by the left to grab a very small, mono divot and pulled off that. Then I fought my feet up and kept trying to build up on the layback until I could make a big move to the jugs up top (13b/c with the rest added on). Tell me what you all think!