Buddha Belly 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.13- [details] |
| FA: | bolted & FA by Mark Rolofson, FFA Jorg Strassner, 1998 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Dan Levison sending Buddha Belly.
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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Eagle Rock MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A burly overhang 20 feet right of Golden Eagle, not the route just right. Work up to a big hollow overlap, then battle through flared cracks and sidepulls to a final layback up a smooth crack/groove. Strenuous, insecure, and complicated. Stays in the shade until 1 pm. Don't even think about it in the sun unless it's pretty cold. A real classic.
Protection 10 bolts.
By Jim Redo
Aug 21, 2002
| 5.13a -no b about it. |
By Hank the Tank
From: Golden, CO
Nov 22, 2008
| Eagle Rock, a really good place as there is, a 10a, 10b 10c, 11a.....leading right up to it for warmups. Better be good at vert up high. It is a great route complete with funkyness and all! Also try Vasodialator and Nevermore (yeesh!) in the canyon. |
By Pinklebear
Sep 30, 2010
| Such a cool route. I've had a love/hate thing with it for a while. If you put your hands just where they need to be in those flared, slanting cracks, you'll love it (you also need to bring your feet up in a specific way). If you put them in the wrong spots, you'll hate it.
The thing is, it takes awhile to find the right spots. (Read: stout for 13a....) |
By Mark Rolofson
Dec 11, 2012
rating: 5.13b
| Here's the FA & FFA info on this fine route. I bolted the route & then made several one hang ascents in October 1998. I returned to the route on two warm days in December 1998 with visiting German climber Jorg Strassner. With draws on the route and my beta, Jorg redpointed the route on December 4, 1998. Two days later it snowed.
I finally returned & redpointed the route in September 2001. I think the route is harder than 5.13a & rated it 5.13b in my last guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".
"Buddha Belly" is harder than any other .13a in Boulder Canyon. Compare it to "Sinopia", "Nevermore", "Flying Beast", "Green Panther", "Give The Dog A Bone", or "Vasodilator". The route is quite sustained, especially the top half up - the powerful, sequential lieback. There are three section of .12a/b up to the .12c/d crux at the 8th bolt. After making it through the crux, I found it hard to shake out at 9th bolt but managed to after finding the right position to straight arm off the seam. The lieback finish is .12a/b. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 13, 2012
| Thanks, Mark! I am going to go with Monsieur Pinklebear on this one. Hard for the grade but not 13b. |
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