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Eagle Rock
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Buddha Belly 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: bolted & FA by Mark Rolofson, FFA Jorg Strassner, 1998
Page Views: 3,701
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

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Dan Levison sending Buddha Belly.
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  • Description 

    A burly overhang 20 feet right of Golden Eagle, not the route just right. Work up to a big hollow overlap, then battle through flared cracks and sidepulls to a final layback up a smooth crack/groove. Strenuous, insecure, and complicated. Stays in the shade until 1 pm. Don't even think about it in the sun unless it's pretty cold. A real classic.


    Protection 

    10 bolts.



    Comments on Buddha Belly Add Comment
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    By Jim Redo
    Aug 21, 2002

    5.13a -no b about it.

    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 22, 2008

    Eagle Rock, a really good place as there is, a 10a, 10b 10c, 11a.....leading right up to it for warmups. Better be good at vert up high. It is a great route complete with funkyness and all! Also try Vasodialator and Nevermore (yeesh!) in the canyon.

    By Pinklebear
    Sep 30, 2010

    Such a cool route. I've had a love/hate thing with it for a while. If you put your hands just where they need to be in those flared, slanting cracks, you'll love it (you also need to bring your feet up in a specific way). If you put them in the wrong spots, you'll hate it.

    The thing is, it takes awhile to find the right spots. (Read: stout for 13a....)

    By Mark Rolofson
    Dec 11, 2012
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

    Here's the FA & FFA info on this fine route. I bolted the route & then made several one hang ascents in October 1998. I returned to the route on two warm days in December 1998 with visiting German climber Jorg Strassner. With draws on the route and my beta, Jorg redpointed the route on December 4, 1998. Two days later it snowed.
    I finally returned & redpointed the route in September 2001. I think the route is harder than 5.13a & rated it 5.13b in my last guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".
    "Buddha Belly" is harder than any other .13a in Boulder Canyon. Compare it to "Sinopia", "Nevermore", "Flying Beast", "Green Panther", "Give The Dog A Bone", or "Vasodilator". The route is quite sustained, especially the top half up - the powerful, sequential lieback. There are three section of .12a/b up to the .12c/d crux at the 8th bolt. After making it through the crux, I found it hard to shake out at 9th bolt but managed to after finding the right position to straight arm off the seam. The lieback finish is .12a/b.

    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Dec 13, 2012

    Thanks, Mark! I am going to go with Monsieur Pinklebear on this one. Hard for the grade but not 13b.