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Budapest 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 1,950
Submitted By: john strand on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

BRILLIANT !!! I think one of the top 5 pitches on the cliff. The crux is the last 15'. Originally 10+

Start up 5.9-ish hands in a bit of a groove, this rapidly goes to thin hands and fingers. Get good rests with some small footholds (I also also remember one really good rest) and remember Ed & Jimmie 28 years ago in EBs. The crux is hard to hang in and protect but takes good gear -- small wires and RPs. Take a couple of whips and then set up a belay on a small stance. Lower down a little to see your second struggle.

There used to be a good viewing spot right on the road to watch people whipping on this, but it has probably grown over now.

Location 

Do the first 2-3 pitches depending on linking then blast straight up the obvious crack

Protection 

Good all the way thinning to small wires at the end.


Comments on Budapest Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 6, 2008

Mark Synott sprayed me down on it a little but the most useful thing he said was that you should save a purple camalot for just before the crux then punch it to the top... I haven't done it yet but i was pissed i didn't get to it this season...
By CCliffe
Jun 16, 2011

i agree with the description. definitely top 5 pitches. you can rap back down to the staring ledge (top diedre's 3rd pitch) with a 60m. this route is a gem
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
May 20, 2013

Doesn't anybody have any photos of this thing? Will have to remedy this situation.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 20, 2013

too pumped.. even belaying
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
Aug 4, 2013

Funny 'cuz it's true. Now I understand...
By Greg Murphy
Oct 15, 2014

Fabulous route with a crux at the last move. One of the best at Cathedral.