Login with Facebook
The Diedre Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Budapest T 
Cooney - Russell T 
Diedre T 
Last Temptation T 
Lousianna Bubble Bath T 
Underground T 
Wez, The T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ed Webster and Jimmie Dunn
Page Views: 2,227
Submitted By: john strand on Nov 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


BRILLIANT !!! I think one of the top 5 pitches on the cliff. The crux is the last 15'. Originally 10+

Start up 5.9-ish hands in a bit of a groove, this rapidly goes to thin hands and fingers. Get good rests with some small footholds (I also also remember one really good rest) and remember Ed & Jimmie 28 years ago in EBs. The crux is hard to hang in and protect but takes good gear -- small wires and RPs. Take a couple of whips and then set up a belay on a small stance. Lower down a little to see your second struggle.

There used to be a good viewing spot right on the road to watch people whipping on this, but it has probably grown over now.


Do the first 2-3 pitches depending on linking then blast straight up the obvious crack


Good all the way thinning to small wires at the end.

Comments on Budapest Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 6, 2008

Mark Synott sprayed me down on it a little but the most useful thing he said was that you should save a purple camalot for just before the crux then punch it to the top... I haven't done it yet but i was pissed i didn't get to it this season...
By CCliffe
Jun 16, 2011

i agree with the description. definitely top 5 pitches. you can rap back down to the staring ledge (top diedre's 3rd pitch) with a 60m. this route is a gem
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
May 20, 2013

Doesn't anybody have any photos of this thing? Will have to remedy this situation.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 20, 2013

too pumped.. even belaying
By Rich Brereton
From: Durham, NH
Aug 4, 2013

Funny 'cuz it's true. Now I understand...
By Greg Murphy
Oct 15, 2014

Fabulous route with a crux at the last move. One of the best at Cathedral.
By Lucas79
From: Asheville, NC
May 17, 2015

Is there anyone who's put up more time tested classics in this country than Jimmie Dunn? Guy sure knew how to pick 'em....this thing is a gem.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 17, 2015

Every....move....gets....harder....until....the...............veryend!!!! Phew! Did it back in the mid 80's. Hung. Got up it anyway. Spoiler...... as I remember the last jam is left hand, pinkie down.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!