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New Mexico
> Las Cruces Area…
> Organ Mountains
> Rabbit Ears Area
> Rabbit Ears Slabs
Bucky's Twin
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Rabbit Ears Slabs
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Barb's Roof Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bucky Blue T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bucky's Shoulder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bucky's Twin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cheap Trick T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drew's Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grandmother's Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keyhole Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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Mother's Day T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Murray's Warmup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 643 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Forrest Wilcox on Jun 8, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This route doesn't compare to Buckey Blue in climbing quality but it is a fun route to continue up after topping out on Buckey Blue. Stay in the corner that closely resembles Buckey and stop when you get to a small tree with some really old webbing on it (140ft). One could probably traverse left from this tree and continue up to the top of the formation. The climbing is easy and straight forward but it's the cacti you have to worry about, in some places you may need to place gear just to keep your rope from getting dragged through a million thorns.
Location
To get to the base of this route you can either top out on Bucky and walk to the obvious next corner system across the small canyon, or walk up the canyon on the right side of the Rabbit Ear Slabs. Climbing Bucky is more enjoyable.
Protection
The pro is good and it's easy to find placements. Once you reach the tree you can either rap from that tree or traverse right on some vegetation to get to another tree with some webbing and a rap ring(20ft). The rappel from either tree would be about 130-140 feet but it might be possible to find a bush on the far right and just use one rope
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