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Buckwheat 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Joel Tracy, Greg Williams, Skip Taylor 1994
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: mschlocker on Apr 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

Climb a bulgy roof up past some good holds to some bad holds. There are really 2 cruxes, the obvious one is getting up over the bulgy roof and the other comes higher when the handholds thin out.

If you plan to lead this a really tough guy would start up Masters of Defeet for one enduro pitch. Wimps like me TR this by tunneling to the top, passing Gallwas Crack on the way. Not sure if a 60 would get you all the way down to the ground but a 70 just might. Be careful.

Location 

Starts up high above Masters of Defeet, right of The Wasp.

Protection 

Bolts. Hang out up above Masters of Defeet at the bolted anchor to belay.


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By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 12, 2012

Hold pulled off today, the first of the three little jugs on the roof, but it was kind of facing out and I don't think anyone would find it to be a critical piece. I wouldn't go jumping up and down the the remaining ones though, they are needed and will probably also peel off some year.