Buckspeck  5.10c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 170 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Dingus & TLPW Submitted By:  david goldstein on Jul 23, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A pretty good pitch, but given the abundance of truly classic lines nearby and some suspect rock, I'll call it merely good.

The pitch follows about 15 bolts up an off-vertical face and an arete. The crux is midway, after the only bolt on the right side of the arete; this section is a little spicey -- the bolt is at your feet after you pull the crux but there is still a body length of insecure moves to get to the next bolt. If you are under about 5'10", you might find the bolt after this one placed just out of reach from the obvious clipping stance. After the crux, the climbing eases off somewhat until you reach a ledge where you might expect to find anchors, only to find four more bolts (happily, more closely spaced) on an imposingly blank slab; fear not, this secondary crux is not as featureless as it first appears.

Descent: 50+ meter rap from two bolts.

Location 

This shady pitch is a few cracks right of Belle Fourche Buttress. A picture would be worth at least 1000 of my words here -- consult a guidebook for the exact location of the pitch. The best way to get to the route is to go to Teacher's ledge and then traverse easily almost straight left to the start keeping an eye out for poison ivy. Identify the route by its bolts, rack up and then scramble up about 15' to a bush where you belay from.

Protection 

At least 15 QDs and long runners. I brought a light rack but only placed one piece, an unnecessary yellow Alien; there are virtually no other placement opportunities any where else where you might want additional gear.

A large nut and a finger size cam (~ .4 Camalot) are needed to establish a belay at the start.