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Middle Teton
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 3000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: W. Buckingham, V. Day, 1954
Season: Summer
Page Views: 5,707
Submitted By: George Bell on Mar 20, 2007

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Looking off the top of the Buckingham Ridge at the...

Description 

From the Meadows head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. The Buckingham Ridge climbs the buttress forming the left side of the Ellingwood Couloir (see location below). This buttress is broad and many variations are possible.

The standard route follows the right edge of the buttress for 4 pitches to a notch. Here the buttress is narrower and your options are fewer. From a belay on chockstones, climb the face of a tower. Continue upward 3 or 4 more pitches to the South Summit. You can bypass the South Summit on the right if you like.

It is not easy to get off the South Summit, to continue do a short rappel into the notch towards the main summit and then walk to the main summit.

Location 

The east ridge, with it's dike, contains a prominent pinnacle called the Dike Pinnacle. SW of this pinnacle is the Ellingwood Couloir. The Buckingham Ridge follows the buttress forming the left hand edge of this couloir, and leads directly to the South Summit in 8 or 9 pitches.

Protection 

Standard rack.

Descent 

Downclimb the Southwest Couloir route.

History 

I've always called this route the Buckingham Ridge, in honor of William Buckingham who did many early Teton ascents. In the guidebook it is simply called the Southeast Ridge. Buckingham put up this route as well as Mt. Owen's Serendipity Arete, and many others.


Photos of Buckingham (SE) Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Southeast face of the Middle Teton as seen from the top of the West Hourglass Couloir on Nez Perce.
Southeast face of the Middle Teton as seen from th...
Climbing up the fun lower pitches of the Buckingham Ridge.  Golden Teton rock!
Climbing up the fun lower pitches of the Buckingha...
Approaching the base of the Ellingwood/Buckingham Ridge on the Middle Teton.
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the base of the Ellingwood/Buckingham ...
Coming up the bottom of the Ellingwood Coulior enroute to the Buckingham Ridge.
Coming up the bottom of the Ellingwood Coulior enr...
Ellingwood Coulior with the Buckingham Ridge on the left.
BETA PHOTO: Ellingwood Coulior with the Buckingham Ridge on th...
Matt committing to some last difficulties up high on the Buckingham Ridge.  Solid!
Matt committing to some last difficulties up high ...

Comments on Buckingham (SE) Ridge Add Comment
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By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Apr 3, 2007

This is a wonderful long moderate with a fair shake of "alpine" issues: routefinding, dealing with the Ellingwood Couloir (which can be nasty), and keeping a quick pace. Quality of rock, however, is not an issue. Enjoy!