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> Bugaboos
> Snowpatch Spire
Buckingham Route (easy version)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.1 from 11
votes
Routes in Snowpatch Spire
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Becky/Mather (Free) 5.12- (or 5.11+ C1 for 4m) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Buckingham Route (easy version) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bugaboo Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Flamingo Fling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Furry Pink Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kraus-McCarthy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Minotaur Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sendero Norte T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/Wiessner's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southwest Ridge - Direct Finish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunshine Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Super Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Surfs Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Warrior Way T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2 |
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Welcome to the Machine T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wildflowers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wile Flowers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1100 ft (333 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Buckingham, Gues, Page, and Wipple 1958 |
| Page Views: | 5,559 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Meredith DB on Dec 9, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
This version of the Buckingham route doesn't go all the way to the summit of Snowpatch, but has climbing only up to 5.8.
The climb ascends the far north side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire. The route faces NW and can be cold. It is recommended as a good introduction to Bugaboo rock, but although the climbing is fairly easy it is more loose and less aesthetic than other Bugaboo climbs
Start at top of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Head up the face for about 70m (usually done in 2 pitches) to gain a large scoop/depression feature that heads up and left. After about 3 more pitches, the depression ends at a dihedral system. Climb out right (not directly up the gorgeous dihedral) and follow flakes and chimneys parallel to the ridge for a couple long pitches (5.7). Stay left of the large black pinnacle. The last pitch leaves from a ledge system: look for two bolts to the left that protect 5.8 slab moves up the face to the top of the tower.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes from fixed anchors. As of August 2007 not all the anchors were in great shape - consider bringing gear or webbing to improve some of the anchors. Also beware of the many rope-eating flakes when rappelling.
The climb ascends the far north side of the west face of Snowpatch Spire. The route faces NW and can be cold. It is recommended as a good introduction to Bugaboo rock, but although the climbing is fairly easy it is more loose and less aesthetic than other Bugaboo climbs
Start at top of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Head up the face for about 70m (usually done in 2 pitches) to gain a large scoop/depression feature that heads up and left. After about 3 more pitches, the depression ends at a dihedral system. Climb out right (not directly up the gorgeous dihedral) and follow flakes and chimneys parallel to the ridge for a couple long pitches (5.7). Stay left of the large black pinnacle. The last pitch leaves from a ledge system: look for two bolts to the left that protect 5.8 slab moves up the face to the top of the tower.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes from fixed anchors. As of August 2007 not all the anchors were in great shape - consider bringing gear or webbing to improve some of the anchors. Also beware of the many rope-eating flakes when rappelling.
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