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Rabbit Ears Slabs
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Bucky Blue 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 744
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jan 30, 2008

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Description 

This route is great: beginner climbing, solid protection all over, fun moves over clean rock and relatively straight-forward route-finding (for the first 200 ft).

Pitch 1 (60ft): Climb directly up to a small lichen-covered block next to a small (8 ft) juniper tree.

Pitch 2 (150 ft): From the tree, slabby climbing out a right slanting overlap leads to a crux move (5.7) at a weakness in the overlap. Easier slab climbing above, past a nice ledge (works as a belay spot) and to the large right-facing corner. Either climb the corner (5.7) or take an easier crack system to the right, to gain a large ledge next to a huge gnarled juniper.

Double-rope rappel from the juniper, or continue up low fifth and fourth class climbing for another 2 pitches and escape left into the canyon between the Rabbit Ears Slabs and The Citadel.


Location 

This route follows varied features starting on the right-hand slab of Rabbit Ears Slabs. To find the route, look for a small trapezoid roof covered in bright green lichen, just left of a small juniper tree. The tree and roof are about 60 ft high. The route than continues towards a large juniper next to a large right-facing corner.


Protection 

The first juniper has a nest of poot slings around it (60ft high). The second juniper also has a nest of slings (210ft rappel).

The route protects well with small to mid-sized pieces. Some variations may require large pieces, but can usually be avoided.



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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 30, 2008

There is an old 1/4" bolt on a slab to the left of the route after the first "crux". This looks like it leads to a weakness in the headwall to the left of the large right-facing corner, but probably is a grade or two harder.

This wall lends itself well to meandering. One can take off in different directions and still be on 5.6 climbing with good pro.

The name of this route is one I've heard from other climbers, when referring to this area, and I hope I've properly identified it.

Karl Kiser informs me that this route is also called Barb's Buttress, which I mistakenly thought was the name of the entire wall.

By jcardon
From: Las Cruces, NM
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This certainly is a great beginner trad lead for those who are comfortable with the grade. There is a descent out using the canyon on your right as seen from the top ridge. This canyon faces west toward town. This descent is quite smooth and straight forward.

By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Skipping the large tree juniper (now dead) and staying in the corner replaces some third class with some of the best climbing on the route.

Continuing up above the tree for another pitch provides some good climbing with plenty of lay-back and other interesting moves. If you are into restriction games, this pitch makes for an interesting "slab" climb. The idea is to avoid the use of any cracks and associated features but stay close to the corner.

From the top, walk off into the canyon behind (south) Rabbit Ear Slabs. When the canyon becomes slabby instead of bouldery, head right to find a grassy patch and a shortcut traverse across the lower part of the slabs to the base of Buckey Blue.

If you wish to climb some more, you can string in Bucky's Twin or the Keyhole Ridge.