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Rocky Creek
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Buckets of Rain 

Buckets of Rain 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: C. Smith and D. Wilkens
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Calvin Smith on Jan 15, 2011
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The lush underbrush at the base of the cliff.

Description 

There are a probably a couple 5.9+ cruxes, one about 10 feet up where the angle of the rock seems to steepen, and foot holds are thin. The other two cruxes require pulling out of the huge huecos back onto the vertical face, roughly one-third and two-thirds of the way up the route.
The sedimentary/igneous rock mixture seems to hold together better than you might imagine, at least when its dry out. Every once in a small stone will pop off, so just make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet!
The location and the solitude makes for some pretty nice climbing as long as its not raining. The name Buckets of Rain not only pertains to the large huecos on the climb, but also to the copious amounts of rainfall that we tend to get every year on the Oregon Coast (Nearly 100 inches in 2010!) So grab onto those buckets and pray that it doesn't rain!


Location 

The route is located directly below the humongous tree located at the top of the cliff. There are also a series of large huecos that mark this route.
Follow the zig-zagging system of deer trails up to the base of the cliff, or climb the dirt bank across the road from the boulder and follow the cliff line until you reach the high point on the cliff wall.
Get down by running your rope directly though the anchor bolts and rappelling, or set up a top rope with quick draws.


Protection 

The route was protected with 12 stainless glue-in bolts (including 2 anchor bolts) in November of 2010. There are no chains at the anchor, so please use quick draws for top roping the climb to preserve the glue-in's. There are also a 2-3 of stainless expansion-bolts that were placed further down on the first big ledge (cerca 2000?), presumably for top roping the first ten feet of the climb.



Photos of Buckets of Rain Slideshow Add Photo
Nearby boulder
Nearby boulder
The final crux pull out of the roof of a body-sized hueco.
The final crux pull out of the roof of a body-size...
Following the base of the cliff, to the the climb.
Following the base of the cliff, to the the climb.
Access road
Access road
Standing at the base of the route, Buckets of Rain. Characterized by the large huecos, and a massive tree growing just above the anchors.
Standing at the base of the route, Buckets of Rain...
D.Wilkens at the initial crux, before the buckets begin.
D.Wilkens at the initial crux, before the buckets ...
View of the climb from the belay.
View of the climb from the belay.
The sign for the nearby Rocky Creek State Park. The climb is .4 miles south on Hwy 101 from here.
The sign for the nearby Rocky Creek State Park. Th...
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