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 ADVANCED
Carderock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginner's Crack TR 
Beginner's Face TR 
Biceps TR 
Billy Goat Boulder 
Buckets of blood (overhang) 
Buckets of Blood Arete TR 
Bulge, The TR 
Bump, The TR 
Butterfly TR 
Chris's Goat TR 
Copycat TR 
Crack, The T,TR 
Cripple's Crack TR 
Cripple's Face TR 
Crippling Paralysis TR 
Crystal Ship TR 
Desperation TR 
Diamond, The T,TR 
Dream Direct, The TR 
Dream, The TR 
Easy Layback TR 
Eight Ball TR 
Elsie's TR 
Elsie's Arete TR 
Elsie's Other TR 
Fingernail TR 
Flake, The TR 
Flutterby TR 
Friction Layback TR 
Golden Staircase TR 
Green Bucket TR 
Hades Heights Girdle Traverse T 
Herbie's Horror TR 
Herbie's Left TR 
Incipient TR 
Iron Cross TR 
Jam Crack TR 
Jan's Face TR 
Kindergarten TR 
Left Edge of Jane's Face TR 
Mad Dog TR 
Merv's Nerve TR 
Norris's Nipple T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Nubbin (Nubble) Face TR 
Outlook Rock Boulder 
Pre-Kindergarten Boulder T 
Rack, The T,TR 
Ronnie's Leap TR 
Serenity Syndrome TR 
Shipley's TR 
Silver Spot TR 
Spider Walk TR 
Sterling's Crack TR 
Sterling's Double Cracks TR 
Swayback Layback TR 
Tea and Scrumpet 
Top Roping at Carderock with Tots TR 
Triple A TR 
Trudie's Terror TR 
Yellow Jacket TR 
Zig Zag TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Buckets of blood (overhang) 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,208
Submitted By: Maxito on Aug 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Little Dave showing lesser mortals how to work the...

Description 

This is the overhang with nasty little crimps at about head height. Stay off the Arete for the V10, and there is evidence of a butt-start for super points.

Location 

Obvious overhang lookers right of 'Buckets' Arete.

Protection 

Pad, some bat-hooks, and a positive attitude.


Comments on Buckets of blood (overhang) Add Comment
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By Andre Dahlman
From: Washington DC
Feb 11, 2012

Tall person beta: Much easier if you do a jump start. Grab good right crimp hand from the ground, jump, lock off, and stab for left hand crimp.
By Matt Lavender
Nov 6, 2013

Buckets of Blood was first done by myself and Mike Kehoe in the mid to early 80's. As I recall, the climb clocked in on the soft side of V7 so either holds have broken or something is very wrong with the current crew of Carderock locals.

The problem was first envisioned by Gunks legend Rich Goldstone. The "official" start entailed jumping from the ground and snagging two separate crimpers - as I recall, one was about a full pad and the other was a half pad. In true Carderock fashion, use of the arete is forbidden. Mike Bercaw, Leith Wain and myself regularly tried to work out the top-out, sans rope. Eventually, Mike and I got tired of the hard landing (pre bouldering pads)and set up a top rope. Note: the climb up the arete (V3?)is called Back Of Impossible - both climbs are mislabeled in at least one guide.

I'm about 6ft and Mike, at several inches shorter, was unable to do the jump start. He did a near sit start (crouching on low holds but not butt on the ground) which added a few moves but didn't change the difficulty. Mike figured out the top moves and we both sent the problem on TR. I returned and after a few more top rope burns, did the problem without a rope using both starts.

There are a number of "harder" problems at Carderock/Great Falls that were done around 1980-1984 that seem to have been lost to history - quite possibly due to the antipathy that existed between the more advanced climbers and the vocal bumblers that were hell bent on writing a guidebook to such an obscure area. Perhaps most irksome of these is Leith Wain's first ascent of the 12d just right of Spider Line (I think I have the right name). Leith did this climb second go - pretty impressive for circa 1982 - but was so pissed that he didn't do it first go that he never bothered to mention it to other climbers. It is a tribute to the backwards nature of the local climbing scene that the route was never repeated until Chris Sharma's "first ascent" years (decades?) later.
By Matt Lavender
Nov 6, 2013

Sorry - that should be John Bercaw! It was Mike Kehoe and I that first put a rope on the climb.
By Matt Lavender
Nov 6, 2013

And...sorry...Leith's climb is right of Sterling's Crack (not Spider Line). It's been decades since I spent any real time and Carderock!

I did another climb right of Spider Line (more accurately, just right of Silver Spot) that is a rather dirty .12c called Right Spot.