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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Unsorted Routes:

Bucket Slave 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler & Kevin McLaughlin, 9/88
Page Views: 2,812
Submitted By: Rog on Aug 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Topping out Bucket Slave.

Description 

This is a fun climb & a great reason to haul some gear in. I find the exact location a bit hard to explain.... This is about 1/2 way to Captain America and on the right (like most routes). A short vertical crack that quickly mellows in angle and soon becomes a ledge that slopes up and to the right.

From this ledge, there is a great bolted line that climbs huecos up the steep wall. We were immediately attracted to the bolted line & then followed it down to the trad crack start. The .10d is (I'd guess) the bolted portion, but the crack down low earns some respect as well.


Protection 

4 bolts for the upper portion, small / medium gear for the bottom crack.



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By Chris R
Sep 19, 2002

Fun combination of sport and trad. The only downfall is that the line is so short. The crack can be adequately protected with a pink tri-cam and a #10 stopper. Hueco'ed headwall is enjoyable pocket-pulling.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
May 16, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Warning: If you're accustomed to climbing "5.10" at Cactus Cliff (Shelf Road), this route is burly. The crack start is solid trad 5.10 and the overhanging headwall is solid Penitente 5.10.

This is a classic for the area, in contention for "best 5.10" despite the big ledge. The crack makes it feel much longer than it is.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I looked at this route many times, because the upper portion's huecos looked so appealing but the lower crack looked hard. We finally got on it and I'm sorry I waited so long. The crack sucks up pro and offers some awesome hand jamming with good feet. A couple medium nuts, a #0.5 camalot and a #4 Camalot up high were more than enough. The upper section, with great huecos, is super fun.

By Scott Rogers
From: Moab, UT
May 19, 2007

This is an awesome crack. I saw it at the beginning of my stay at Penitente, and finally decided to get on it. The initial crack was excellent. I felt the crux of the crack to be a solid 5.9 because of the good feet. The overhanging headwall was also excellent. Great route overall!

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Following the crack all the way to the top of the wall is a fun climb and really the "logical line" but while Im sure it was climbed long ago, I see no name for it anywhere. Possibly "Crack Slave"? Its a fun 5.9 requiring a range of gear and a variety of techniques. Probably best to set up a gear anchor and have the last climber move the anchor to Rocketman and lower from there.

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Apr 17, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

FA Glenn Schuler & Kevin Mclaughlin. This was the first Penitente route I put up with Kevin the day he showed me the place. I had spent many hours the weeks prior hand drilling and cutting my super sweet, janky, red, homeboy hangers in anticipation of my trip. I was just a punk kid & didn't know any better, good times!